Free Vintage Pattern Saturday |Small and Large Bust Adjustments | Waist Hips and Thighs

To start the New Year I was going to share some awesome free vintage patterns from my collection and other places around the internet–which by the way I am still going to do.

But, then I thought about the big content splash around the web in-terms of relevant content having to do with improving your dressmaking skills with respect to measuring, alterations and pattern grading of vintage sewing patterns. These sites use vintage techniques when possible–I have gone through many sewing books dating back to the late 1800’s some things are the same now as it was then, what may be different; but the tools needed for many techniques are being refined.

They’ve been in our sewing books all along–but we were not paying attention –didn’t have time, so we stopped finishing seams except with the standard manufactured serger and we’re enjoying getting back to the basic–the quality..

Thinking about what I just wrote–I want couture quality in my sewing that I make for myself and others and on the way there

Remember, vintage techniques used quality finishings

While I consider myself a skillful dressmaker, it’s definitely an area that I find the most interesting and challenging and to fine tune my skills, I sort out blogs that you may or may not know about.

I also have to give credit to Pinterest which has led me to some great resources and Chrome’s translation extensions open the door worldwide sources.

Now while I love sewing up a true vintage treasure and as you know I sell them too, I’ve discovered a gap in the market place–a niche.

So the question is, what if you could buy the vintage pattern of you wanted in the size you needed, requiring minimal alterations? What would it be?

So let’s start there, look at these really great vintage summer designs, I want to know which one you like the best. Taking the poll and commenting — I want to thank you in advance, its appreciated.

When we’re thinking about vintage sizing and wondering why 50’s and 60’s models looked so slim and trim in our personal collections of vintage patterns and magazines–let us not forget–women of that era worn girdles and corsets to make their bodies fit the shape of many styles.

As a matter of fact, I can remember being told to wear a girdle as a girl and on occasion today I still wear firm under-garments to make sure that my lumps and bumps are inc check.

I can’t remember the last time I even wore a pair of pantyhose–I wear stocking with garters and garter belts or the ones with the lace bands.

Now you might ask how does that feel in the summer–well be sure to select your under-garments based on materials suitable for the season. Like cotton bra’s and slips for instance.

Enough rambling checkout this article from Jennifer Valentine | The Body Beautiful, she takes on the subject with an eloquence that I find interesting.

Next and most important step as you know is your body measurements–this is not a task you can do alone and have accurate measurements, I believe as the next blog author that fitting problems can be eliminated before the begin by doing this first step correctly.

The next post by  Marina of Frabjous Couture is just what the doctor ordered, Hip Circumference and Fit for the figure with a tummy/belly or handle-bars or other mid-section imperfections, this is the first of a series of articles on the subject and she leaves us with some homework.

Next we’ll explore a couple of blog contributor’s with something to say about the Bust Adjustment and essential for almost everyone –wait let me just say, ready-made patterns just like shoes come in an average size the standard B cup, well a lot of women either have bust that are slimmer or fuller so how do you make a great fitting bodice.

Since bust adjustments are the most commonly asked question, I’ll devote several different resources to the subject.

Small Bust Adjustments

First we’re going to tackle Small Bust Adjustments which is more difficult to find articles about the subject, but Shannon has taken on the subject with a blog post titled “My Cup Does Not Runneth Over“, take a read if you need to adjust down instead of up.

As you’ll see with this next post on Slapdash Sewist, she takes an approach that most of us use, and that is working at the process until we get the bodice or top to fit the way we want it to.  But her pictures are great and easy to follow when it comes to making bust adjustments for small bust sizes.

Everybody’s familiar with Gertie, well she does a “Small Bust Adjustment Tutorial” for a pattern from her book “Gerties New Book for Better Sewing” and Colette Patterns, I think you’ll find it most useful.

For Us Full Busted Ladies With  C, D, E, F and G Cups

In this next post from Sincerely Yours, I really like the point that Kate makes about the “Full Bust Adjustment” as a milestone event in the sewing life of any heavy chested woman.  The book she recommends is Palmer/Pletsch Fit for Real People an excellent resource for your sewing library.

Back in the day I was 5’/7.5″, the perfect size 12 for my life before age 40, then a perfect size 14 after until my early 50’s. Now in my late 50’s I find that my hips are still a 44″ but my protruding stomach is a nightmare caused by fibroid tumors, gallstones and now ulcers. This next resources would have been a great resource for me.

Another FBA resource is courtesy of Pink Chalk Studios, in her post she shares her experience from a fitting class  at Pacific Fabrics in Bremerton, WA learning the Palmer/Pletsch method of fitting for unique shapes. I wanted to visit that Pacific Fabrics in Bremwnton and didn’t have a chance.

Bra fittings were an annual event during my adolescents, and I continue that tradition today with my daughter and grandaughter. By the way my granddaughter graduates from High School this June, anyway, you will know your true size.

Finally Sew LA Blog, gives a great run-down on Full Bust Adjustment techniques with measurements and all.

Enjoy these Fitting Tutorials and Resources.

Since we’re on the theme of vintage dressmaking–knits were on the rage in the forties and fifties and are still one of the most expensive custom couture fashions today, enjoy these beauties and share an outfit when you knit or crochet one of the patterns. Download this “Free Vintage Pattern eBooks” and enjoy your weekend.

knitting, crochet, patterns vintage, 30s, 1930, diamond, coats, suits, dresses, vintage, patterns

Couture Knitting Crochet Patterns Free PDF Book

vintage, free, patterns, knitting, jeweled, mink, trimmed, crochet

Free Vintage Jeweled Knitted Cardigan Pattern

bucilla, knitting, crochet, patterns, vintage , 30s, 1930, bernhard ulmann, coats, suits, dress, ensembles, hats, skirts

Free Knitting Crochet Vintage Suits Coats Dress Patterns

Vintage Collection of Designer Couture Sewing Tips By Spadea Pattern Company | All Pages Posted

Thank you all for following this series of post about 60’s designer sewing tips by a little known pattern company call Spadea, you can find more about this company’s history here at Fuzzy Lizzie.

The Vintage Traveler took the leap and actually contacted the mother Anne Spadea Combs, and it sounds like a really informative conversation, I think you’ll enjoy it check it out. Take special note that the Duchess of Windsor Collection for really for the Duchesses and that relationship lasted over ten years.

Earlier in this series, I spotlighted the Designer’s featured in this book you can find those post here

But there were other as outlined here;

Alan Graham, Anne Fogarty, Brigance, Ceil Chapman, Charles LaMaire, Charles Montaigne, Dinah Shore, Eguzquiza, Fontana, Harvey Berin, Herbert Sondheim, Lachasse, Leo Narducci, Tina Leser, Mollie Parnis, Nancy Layton, Norman Hartnell,Roberto Capucci, Simonetta, Veneziani, Vera Maxwell. I will outline a few below.

According to the Vintage Pattern Wiki Alan Graham created about ten designs for Spadea, unfortunately I could not find a Biography for Alan.

Anne Fogarty was part of the American Designer Series by Spadea. Wikipedia published an extensive bio, but if you want to see images, check out Fuzzy Lizzie once again provides a nice history and some really nice eye candy to boot. You might want to check out “The Well Dressed Wife” it would make a splendid addition library.

I would now like to focus on Tom Brigance relationship with the pattern publisher, it looks like he created about 12 designs which are illustrated noted on the Vintage Pattern Wiki. Pinterest provides a Gallery of designs by the iconic fashion designer. also checkout Couture Allure for one of his most desirable designs — you’ll find is still in demand today.

Ceil Chapman is another contributor to these classic styles you can see more of those designs at the Selfish Seamstress and a bit of background, Squidoo is also one of my favorite places checkout this wonderful lens on the designs at classic Vintage Old Hollywood Style .

According to what information I could find Charles LaMaire, was a prolific costume designer for some very famous movies such as All About Eve staring my favorite actress Betty Davis. I could talk all day–but check out his works here on Pinterest.

The book Designer Sewing Tips By Spadea Pattern Company is a gold mind of tips and techniques and my copy is securely in my sewing library, but I love to share and you can find every page at my Free Vintage Patterns Dazespast, soon each tip will cataloged by page so enjoy!

The cover image Hat is by my up and coming designer friend Mary over at MaryGwyneth Designs or her Facebook Page.

You can find other articles about the Spadea Sewing techniques by following these links.

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage 1960s

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 18 to 29

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 40 to 53

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 54 to 77 | Pockets to Collar Magic

I’ve written nothing at all about my love of fashion dolls–the dolls are amazing but the doll-sized couture is what makes me go Wow! stay tunes for the best of the best in everything that dresses and furnishes today’s dolls all with a vintage flare.

That’s all for now.

Peace!

Ruby

 

Vintage and Modern Fine Sewing Techniques for All the Veteran’s Who Love to Sew

I would like to dedicate this post to my youngest son serving our country since 1998 and all like him–Happy Veteran’s Day.

SSG Lunkins

SSG Lunkins

I know there’s great pride in wearing your uniform–but when the uniform come’s off you want to so off your individuality –some go shopping other’s bring out the sewing machine. Tonight I would like to share some of my favorite links for the best dressmaking tips, tricks and patterns.

Sewing Diaries with Paul Gallo

Trompe L’oeil with the Sewing Divas

db7d5017ea7f868ced224232871bc567

Trompe L’oeil Sample

Tutor Couture: How to Drape on the Stand

How to Drape a Dress with Master Tailor Sten Martin

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02yliFTPaVU

The Art of Draping

Threads Magazine editor Stephani Miller – Draping

How to Make a Hat Base – Threads Magazine

Fabric bow and feather embellishments transform the hat base from simple to stunning.

La Couturiere Dimanche – Designing by Draping

1930s Draping Book

How to Sew a Vintage Style High-Waist Play Suit

Two Piece Playsuit

Two Piece Play-Suit

Beach Suit Pattern 1937 courtesy Vintage Chic

1937 playsuit

Designing a Corset Part One with Ralph Pink

Die Alma Mode German 1948 Sewing Patterns

Vintage Men's Sport Jacket and Slacks

Vintage Men’s Sport Jacket and Slacks

Die Alma Mode 342

40s Lounging Pajamas

40s Lounging Pajamas

Vintage Bathing Suit Patterns

Vintage Bathing Suit Pattern

Shrimpton and Perfect – The Haslam System of Dresscutting

I plan to try this vintage Dressmaking System it’s available from, I have not located original copies yet, but you can find all the volumes as reproductions from by Bramcost Publications. I think it’s well worth the cost for the entire library.

Vintage Pattern Making for 1920s, 30s, 40s and 50s Fashions (Haslam Chart and Foundation Draftings)

To all that serve–Happy Veteran’s Day!

1218 Vintage Spadea Pattern

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 54 to 77 | Pockets to Collar Magic

Hi there, how was your week?

Today we had our first snow fall, the thin blanket of snow was beautiful, and I know there lots more to come.

Here’s the next installment of Spadea’s Vintage Collection of Designer How-To’s and Tips covering a range of topics. I’ve decided that I am going to follow behind several other blogger’s and link to the large books on my Google books page because the PDF’s are huge, and I want to make sure that you can print them if you like.

Let’s start with the topic of Patch Pockets, did you know there is a technique to attach them so the sewing is invisible? check out this little secret.

sewing patch pockets

Patch Pockets

patch pockets

Sewing Patch Pockets continued

sewing weights

Weighty Problems

weights sewing

Weighty Problems continued

How to Resolve Ravelling

Do you have trouble neatly securing the undersides of bound buttonholes, follow Herbert Sondheim has a solution.

sewing ravelling how to problems

How to Solve Ravelling Problems

French Piping

I am a stickler for fine finishes and beautiful detail and so was Jo Copeland, so let’s learn how Jo handled the application of piping.

Ravelling Problems | French Piping

Ravelling Problems | French Piping

French Piping cont Page 60

French Piping cont Page 60

French Piping continued | Top-Stitching

French Piping continued | Top-Stitching

Top Stitching with a Twist

Taking a cue from Jacques Tiffeau, you can give a custom look to your tailored clothes with some extra-special top-stitching. All you need is some silk buttonhole twist, a little extra effort and the adept use of your sewing machine.

sewing top stitch stitching

Top Stitching continued

A Smart Move

Use these instructions to re-cut your pattern to create similar results.

reducing armhole bulk facings moving

Moving Armhole Facings

When your zipper becomes a distraction, Harvey Berin the perfectionist shows you how to go beyond the invisible zipper for a truly couture result.

Zippers the Knack

Zippers the Knack

Zippers the Knack cont

Zippers the Knack cont

Zippers the Knack continued Page 66

Zippers the Knack continued Page 66

Zippers the Knack continued Page 67

Zippers the Knack continued Page 67

Avoid Distress with Gussets

There’s nothing worse than having a garment ruined by strain on the fibers — gussets to the rescue.

Let Irene Gilbert shares her wonderful way with fabrics. If you use hand-woven woolens and fine linens which tend to ravel easily, learn how to give special attention to any area of a garment that must withstand unavoidable strain.

Gussets

Gussets

Gussets cont..

Gussets cont..

Gussets continued

Gussets continued

gussets sewing tips dressmaking

The Vintage Gussets cont..

The Best Bound Buttonhole – we’ve heard that before.

You may have experimented with the various ways of making bound buttonholes only to find the results disappointing and the couture look you had so hoped to create already lost by a less than perfect buttonhole.

Vincent Monte Sano prefers the two-piece buttonhole describes below.

Bound Buttonholes

Bound Buttonholes

Bound Buttonholes cont..

Bound Buttonholes cont..

Bound Buttonhole cont

Bound Buttonhole cont

Here’s what I think is the trickiest part of the process–that of finishing the underside or facing under the completed buttonhole.

Finishing Bound Buttonholes

Finishing Bound Buttonholes

Collar Magic

You know if you do not own a tailor’s ham, buy one or make one, it is an indispensable tool in my opinion for this technique to give you stellar results.

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection cont..

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection cont..

Look for the link to download the entire book coming soon.

The entire 218 pages of Spadea’s Collection of Vintage Sewing Techniques can be found here.

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Vintage Sewing Tips | Jeweled Buttons | Snaps Under-Wraps Pages 40 to 53

Here’s the latest collection of Spadea Designer Sewing Tips covering pages 40-53. Enjoy!

vintage button sew jewel jeweled

How to Sew On Jeweled Buttons

I love jeweled buttons high-end techniques not only protect the fiber but it just gives your project that polished finished look. When you think about it these cost are costly in a lot of cases one of a kind so attaching them properly is a must. Take a look at theses gorgeous from Pinterest.

Bedazzled Buttons: Modern Embellishments to Try for FallAntique Deluxe Design Button w/Emerald Colored Jewel & Pointy Cut Steels; Circa 1890'sModern Large Pewter and Blue Glass Jewel with Nile Lotus Motif ~ R C Larner Buttons at eBay  http://stores.ebay.com/RC-LARNER-BUTTONS

vintage sewing buttons tips

About Buttons

If you like collecting buttons or just like looking at antique and vintage buttons, here’s three books from my personal collection you might find useful. By all means, please suggest books that you like.


Buttons (Collector’s Blue Books)

The Collector’s Encyclopedia of Buttons (Schiffer Book for Collectors)

Button Button: Identification and Price Guide

All About Buttons..continued

All About Buttons..continued

snaps covered cover how to

How to Keep Snaps Under Wraps

Covering snaps and hooks and eyes..what’s your favorite finishing technique?

beading technique how to embroidery paillettes beads sequins jo copeland

The Jewelled Look

Adding beads and sequins, a labor of love, share your beading project…

Here are a few websites and books I have bookmarked and Books in my library.

~ Pearl Embroidery ~

Mary Corbet’s

Beads East, let me knot what you think about the site.

Take a look at this site,

A Beading Lesson: Beaded Chain Stitch with Nancy Ehaa, what do you think?

Before I forget–I need to let everyone know that I am now participating in the Amazon Affiliate program. The books you see with links, I receive a commission for each one sold. I buy most of my books from Amazon, eBay, Albris or ABE each book in the link is one I already have in my library.

Here are several book already on my bookshelves:


Fine Embellishment Techniques: Classic Details For Today’s Clothing

The Art of Making Hand Beaded Bags

The Art of Tassel Making

beading sequins sewing vintage

Adding Beads and Sequin

loos fringe beads beading

Single Loops Fringe

beaded flowers sequin sewing

Raised Flower Sequins

Paillettes continued | Tweed Effects

Paillettes continued | Tweed Effects

Hand Woven Tweeds

Hand Woven Tweeds

If you like Surface beading and like to knit, here’s a book that is pure eye candy with respect to beaded trim work. It’s a 1950’s Columbia Minerva book “Glamour Sweaters” Book 702, available from the main website for $6.99

sewing trims trimming bias remove ribbing

Trimmed Sweater

Here’s an opportunity to add a little bling to your sweaters…

beaded sweater, lace trimmed top & cute belt

Beaded Edge Cardigan

Various Bead Designs

sewing trims upscale

How to Trim Away Ribbing

sewing trims trimming bias

Sweater Trims

sewing embroidery beading trims

Adding Sweater Trimming

Here’s four links that you might like–

The Art of Making Tassels

Historical Beadwork Part 1

Historical Beadwork Part 2

knitting crochet sewing vintage pattern PDF downloads

Vintage Sewing and Dressmaking Advice | Great Blog Round-Up

Hi there, yesterday I came across some really good blogs that I want to share, you may already know about some or all of these sites but you may not.

Most are about vintage sewing, dressmaking and various techniques. I hope that you’ll find them useful.

A Good Wardrobe – her blog offers advice about what makes a good wardrobe and how to make it. I was going to pass on this one, but I decided to check out the content and it’s really good and personable site and I think one the deserves bookmarking. The post that got my attention was “Independent Pattern Designers“, her page provides great links to pattern designer websites.

Megan Nielsen – was another blog that I found interesting, I like the idea of sew-a-longs and at some point plan on conducting my own. In the meanwhile the site has tutorials and a lot of little quickie DIY projects, it’s a good resource.

Kestrel Makes – a lively site, what caught my attention was that she features vintage knitting patterns as well as sewing projects, what caught my eye was this 60’s vintage V neck pullover pattern.

Julia Bobbin - 1960's dress with Butterick 5747

Julia Bobbin, I think this blog is my favorite find of the week, the blog was really informative even for an experienced seamstress and crocheter such as myself, especially the post on Bound Buttonholes, I have to say it is really good and will become a permanent link on our tutorial page.

Sewing Your Style is another favorite of mine, the primary reason is she’s bustie and has hips which mean every pattern requires alterations or style changes. How to do them can be tricky, hurrah for us not really plus size bustie and hippy women with their own sense of style. Remember this; you can wear most any style providing you can make the necessary alterations and style changes to account for your full figure.

The next site has nothing at all to do with sewing, but is does have to do with good foundations for us who can’t buy our foundation garments at big box stores such as Target, Kmart or Walmart. last year my daughter and I went for out annual bra fitting and my measurement was a 36F, you can’t find that size at most stores, so two really good bras cost about $140…ouch! Well Facebooks targeted ads were right on the money with this bra website called Brayola. At first I wasn’t all that keen about going through the process, but I did and found my Panache Andorra bras for 50% less than what I paid at the store in Royal Oak, Michigan, so check it out. Yes, the personal fitting was worth it, but not at that price.

Lucky Lucille – is another site that I found absolutely delightful to browse around. Rochelle focus is mainly 40’s patterns, but she also has a vintage knitting page, over the years I have tried many times to just finish a knitted scarf, I’ve given up on learning how to knit except by machine. However, I love knits, and I’ve come to this conclusion — crochet is my thing. The other phenomenal find is that she does vintage fabric reproductions worth checking out for sure.

By Hand London – is another site we liked a lot, the primary reason is because it’s full of resources. Try out the Tracing and Altering Patterns or the Victoria Blazer Sew a-Long. Finally,the Zippers Hems and Finishing Touches, they were all well laid-out and very useful.

I leave for Detroit for a few days, I’ll be visiting Haberman’s Fabrics in Royal Oak, the only really true fabric store remaining in southeastern Michigan. Living here in northern NY in the woods, I might add, New York City is just as far as Detroit from where I live and cost me less once I’m there. My other fabric option which is truly a gem is the Fabric District in Montreal which is closer than both of my other choices. One of these days I’ll tell about my truly inspiration trip to the Fabric District in downtown Los Angeles — I was truly overwhelmed and came away with just some velvet–go figure.

I came back to add a link that started by link chase yesterday and Gertie answered the burning question once again that I find from anyone who wants to sew vintage patterns realizes very quickly, the raraity of large size patterns and even when you do find the right bust and hip size additional grading and alterations are still needed. Vintage pattern sizing is a quest that you can never have too many sources for guidance.

Stay tuned for the next installment of the Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips

Related articles

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Tailor’s Slip Stitch | Hidden Buttoning | Pages 30 to 39

Tonight, there’s another glitch with E Bay’s listing form, so I decided to add more from the Spadea’s collection of sewing tips, here’s pages 30 to 39.

Hidden Buttoning – Many innovative styling techniques were innovations by Mr. Tiffeau’s, one of the most popular was the hidden button closure, giving a fluid unbroken look, which gives no hint of the button closure beneath. In his 1960’s collection, he used this closing in his loosely fitted jacket of a two piece dress made of flannel. Spadea’s N-1288 Two Piece Dress from the Vintage Pattern Wiki is an example of the technique.

Hidden Buttoning | Spadea

Hidden Buttoning | Spadea

Hidden Buttoning Continued

Hidden Buttoning Continued

would you like to see more of Tiffeau’s designs, check out Reading Vintage Vogue, on my birthday in 2003, the New York time sprinted an article call “The Hustler” which I think gives a great summary of how Tiffeau influenced the fashion industry.

Decisions Decisions Decisions - Sleeves

Decisions Decisions Decisions – Sleeves

Detachable Sleeves not a new idea, but how to do it? Well that might have escaped the knowledge base of the average seamstress including me.

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland

Facing the Facings – This tip isn’t just about facing it’s about flawless finishing techniques. If you have the chance to use this technique or have used a similar finishing, please share a pictures with our growing community.

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

The Tailor’s Slip Stitch – a sign of couture is your skill at hand stitching and your finishes, this is a hem technique worth learning to do. In the modern-day, most machines give similar hem stitch, but I think taking the time to practice and learn this technique is well worth the effort.

Tailor's Slip Stitch

Tailor’s Slip Stitch

Cover-up for A Collar

Cover-up for a Collar

Cover-up for a Collar

Cover a Collar Continued

Cover a Collar Continued

Sizing Up a Button

Sizing Up a Button

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage |Dust and Cut | The Golden Chain | Pages 18 to 29

Dust and Cut –marking and cutting out your pattern is the most time-consuming and tedious task, here’s an interesting idea from the workrooms of Shannon Rodgers.

Duct and Cut

Dust and Cut

A Pressing Matter – pressing not ironing is one of the most important task in the dressmaking process, if you want a professional looking finished piece, this is one step that you can always improve upon. According to Madame Biki any fabric having a specific nap or pile, such as velvet, or any embossed fabric having a raised design such as matelasse or cloque, could not be pressed. The fabric with the pile surface would become matted and the embossed fabric would lose its character pattern or volume. A system has been found whereby the fabric returns to its original freshness even after lengthy handling have you ever used a velvet board? They are still expensive but worth the investment. Instead use a double layer of thick terry surface towels placed over the ironing board instead.

A Pressing Matter

A Pressing Matter

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter

How to Handle A Delicate Drifter – Modern techniques have helped to lessen the trouble with handling and sewing these mysterious slinky fabrics as they slip and slither when you’re working with them. Jo Copeland has a bit of magical know-how from her workrooms. Here’s a little tip that you learn early on, try to have a surface large enough to accommodate the fabric width and length. Use a roll of tissue paper to underlay the fabric. If the paper isn’t wide enough, pin or scotch tape two or more widths together. You stitch right through the paper and fabric.

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter Continued

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter Continued

The Golden Chain – To keep the perfect hang of your suit jacket, designer Bill Blass uses a wonderful golden chain. You don’t have to use a gold chain but whatever metal you decide to use make sure it will stand the test of time. The chain makes a wonderful finishing touch that is not only practical but it’s decorative as well. By the way, check our a wonderful video on making the Chanel little black jacket which uses this same technique. Suit jackets, especially those made from woven fabrics will shag over time if this method is not used. The chain acts as a gentle weight and importantly keeps the weight evenly distributed along the entire lower edge of the jacket.

The Golden Chain

The Golden Chain

The Golden Chain Continued

The Golden Chain Continued

Why An Underlining? While each step in the dressmaking process is important, based on my experience I think the pressing and choosing the right underlining and interfacing is of the utmost importance. A wide and confusing choice of fabrics are available for underlining and each serves a definite purpose. How can you know which kind to choose, first read Understanding Underlining.

Be sure to understand that underlining and lining a garment is two different processes. I suggest that you read Underlining Vs Interfacing.

Anthony Blotta gives some help and aid in your choice. For loosely woven, knitted or soft woolen fabrics, the underlining is used for shape retention. To define molded contours or shape bouffants. Read more about underlining…

Why an Underlining | Anthony Blotta

Why an Underlining | Anthony Blotta

A Fitting Shortcut – One of the most important things you’ll want to carry out a flawless fit. Vincent Monte Sano suggests that you should always make a trail copy to test the fit of a garment.

Vincent Monte Sano | Fitting Shortcuts

Vincent Monte Sano | Fitting Shortcuts

Tips for Interfacing – the tips discussed in this book by Monte Sano and Pruzan will help you to cut the bulk of interfacing. in one example using their suggested method reduces the bulk when working with darts becomes immediately clear. Remember usually, you can’t find the correct type of interfacing in your typical fabric store, use the link resource below to understand and indulge in the finer more upscale materials for your project.

Make the Most of Exceptional Interfacing and How to Interface Jackets: Lessons from a Yves Saint Laurent Garment.

The first article especially provides insight and resources for purchasing these linings because they do make a big difference in how your finished piece will look.

Tips for Interfacings

Tips for interfacing

Tips for Interfacings continued | Monte Sano | Pruzan

Tips for Interfacing continued | Monte Sano | Pruzan

The Iron-On Fabric | Today’s Fusible Interfacing – Biki of Milan claimed that it could be used as a wonderful shortcut for stiffening extensive areas and to give a better value and new weight to certain fabrics, especially those used in making suits and coats.

Biki was correct in some cases fusible interfacing is used as underlining giving your garment a sculpted look, I hope this handy Chart of Fusible and Sew-in Interfacing is helpful.

The Iron On Fabrics

The Iron On Fabrics

The Iron On Fabrics Continued

The Iron On Fabrics Continued

I thought you might like this next article because the project allows you will use many of these techniques to complete the Jacket.

The 70 Hour classic French Jacket

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage 1960s | Joset Walker | Shannon Rodgers | Jerry Silverman

Designer Biographies

Designer Bio Shannon Roger | Joset Walker

Bio Shannon Roger | Joset Walker

Shannon Rodger and his partner Jerry Silverman have joined together to and became one of the raging successes of the American fashion industry in the 1960’s. Their showroom was a constant whirlwind of activity as buyers eagerly sought to make their purchases. They truly snared the fancy of the astute young moderns who recognized good design and good quality at prices they could afford.

Joset Walker is one of America’s outstanding designers of sportswear. her French origin makes her a stickler for fine tailoring as well as for chic. Here in this book she shares some of her sewing knowledge to help women become more efficient in their ventures. Here a Flicker page with lots of beautiful images of Joset’s designs.

Here’s couple of her sportswear designs.

Dorian Leigh in Swimwear by Joset WalkerJoset Walker Design

A collection of Sewing Tips Sapdea09072013_00005 - Copy

Jacques Tiffeau was the first American designer to raise hemlines to mini length.   Tiffeau and Busch are a team of high style fashion designers who have reached the top at a very young age. with their youth they have pioneered many new sewing gadgets and techniques. In this book you’ll discovery some of the innovations.

Here’s a great biography for Tiffeau you might enjoy and a few images.

Vincent Monte Sano and Pruzan top names in the American coat and suit market are known for their superb soft tailoring, styling and exclusive imported fabrics. their clothes are in the luxury class with prices at the time starting at $300 retail. In this publication they reveal custom tailoring secrets so women who sew could have greater success.

Jo Copeland and Anthony Blotta

Jo Copeland and Anthony Blotta

Jo Copeland one of America’s top names in high fashion she has been the darling of the chic women of Park and Fifth Avenues, who love feminine clothes. Here in this book she shares some of her sewing secrets so that women who make their own clothes could become better dresses than ever. Here’s more about Jo and her rise through the ranks of Fashion Design. Here’s a link over to a wonderful Pinterest page for Jo Copeland. I just love this Copeland Dress.

There no much information out there about Anthony Blotta the Vintage Pattern Wiki was a good source. Anthony Blotta is a master Tailor in the true sense of the word. His exquisitely constructed, hand finished clothes reflect his exacting standards. They are created for women who recognize and can afford the best. Here, he shares his couture know how.

Blotta began his fashion house in 1919, he became known for his work in wool, especially his suits and coats, and evening wear. He worked within the silhouettes of current fashion, but often with a softer edge. Blotta remained in business into the 1960’s. As I stated there’s not Anthony his work but here’a a link to a Gallery of Anthony Blotta’s work. By chance, if you know about more information, please share the link.

Biki of Milan | Irene Gilbert

Biki of Milan | Irene Gilbert

Puccini and Elvira became grandparents when Fosca and Salvatore Leonardi had their first child, Franca. In 1905 a second daughter followed. she was called “Little Elvira” and was the baby Puccini adored. when she grew up, Little Elvira Leonardi became the famous Milanese fashion designer “Biki of Milan”,  who reigned supreme in her atelier and whose clients included Milanese noblewomen, film stars, Maria Callas, and Toscanini’s daughters and granddaughters. If you’d like to read more about Biki check out this free book on Google Books.

Our Next Post will begin With exploring methods used by designers to mark fabric..Until next time.

Irene Gilbert of Dublin is the leading Irish couture designer of her era. Despite the competition from Paris and Italy her pattern designs have outsold others for amny seasons. this is a reflection of her creative ability. Her styling and workmanship are superb. Checkout this wonderful Irish Photo gallery.

Bill Blass | David Goodstein

Bill Blass | David Goodstein

Bill Blass. award winner for his septacularly chic and femininr clothes is now a seasoned star in the fashion designing world. He is one of the new group of American designers to emerge. he combines the traditional and the novel to create some of the greatest American clothes. Blass began his New York fashion career in 1945. He was a protégé of Baron de Gunzburg In 1970, after two decades of success in menswear and womenswear, he bought Maurice Rentner Ltd., which he had joined in 1959, and renamed it Bill Blass Limited. Over the next 30 years he expanded his line to include swimwear, furs, luggage, perfume, and chocolate. By 1998, his company had grown to a $700-million-a-year business.

David Goodstein was the king in the realm of casual sportswear as written by the St. Petersburg Times, a title he held through many successful seasons through many years The pattern shown in the St. Petersburg Times, May 23, 1954 is one of the powers behind his throne for it  has everything a casual ensemble should have, charm. detail, enhancing silhouette and a special air of its own.

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage 1960s

Couture Sewing Techniques by the world's most famous fashion designers of the time.

Couture Sewing Techniques by the world’s most famous fashion designers of the time.

Each week new sewing tips from world famous designers appeared in leading newspapers from coast to coast.

The were authored by Dale Cavanagh un the title “You’re Sew Right”, sponsored by the Spadea Pattern Service – which also appeared weekly in over 300 newspapers.

Copyright 1967

Copyright 1967

Table of Contents 1

Table of Contents 1

Table of Contents 2

Table of Contents 2

I’ve tried some of these tips such as; the Golden Chain; How to Keep Snaps Under Wrap; The Welt Seam; Knotted Buttons and many more.

Contents 3

Contents 3

Table of Contents 4

Table of Contents 4

Table Contents 5

Table Contents 5

Needling Your Way to Couture Smartness on a Budget

Needling Your Way to Couture Smartness on a Budget

Introduction 2

Introduction 2

Introduction 3

Introduction 3

Look for the next installment – Spadea’s Designer Profiles

In the meanwhile here’s a few links about the Spadea Pattern company and its fabulous vintage patterns.

There always the Vintage Pattern Wiki with lots of images.

Fuziielizzie Vintage Clothing is another source of background information about Spadea.

A Few Loose Threads is one of my favorites Blogs to follow for many reasons, checkout here recent piece only collectors or would be collector’s can appreciate.