1218 Vintage Spadea Pattern

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 54 to 77 | Pockets to Collar Magic

Hi there, how was your week?

Today we had our first snow fall, the thin blanket of snow was beautiful, and I know there lots more to come.

Here’s the next installment of Spadea’s Vintage Collection of Designer How-To’s and Tips covering a range of topics. I’ve decided that I am going to follow behind several other blogger’s and link to the large books on my Google books page because the PDF’s are huge, and I want to make sure that you can print them if you like.

Let’s start with the topic of Patch Pockets, did you know there is a technique to attach them so the sewing is invisible? check out this little secret.

sewing patch pockets

Patch Pockets

patch pockets

Sewing Patch Pockets continued

sewing weights

Weighty Problems

weights sewing

Weighty Problems continued

How to Resolve Ravelling

Do you have trouble neatly securing the undersides of bound buttonholes, follow Herbert Sondheim has a solution.

sewing ravelling how to problems

How to Solve Ravelling Problems

French Piping

I am a stickler for fine finishes and beautiful detail and so was Jo Copeland, so let’s learn how Jo handled the application of piping.

Ravelling Problems | French Piping

Ravelling Problems | French Piping

French Piping cont Page 60

French Piping cont Page 60

French Piping continued | Top-Stitching

French Piping continued | Top-Stitching

Top Stitching with a Twist

Taking a cue from Jacques Tiffeau, you can give a custom look to your tailored clothes with some extra-special top-stitching. All you need is some silk buttonhole twist, a little extra effort and the adept use of your sewing machine.

sewing top stitch stitching

Top Stitching continued

A Smart Move

Use these instructions to re-cut your pattern to create similar results.

reducing armhole bulk facings moving

Moving Armhole Facings

When your zipper becomes a distraction, Harvey Berin the perfectionist shows you how to go beyond the invisible zipper for a truly couture result.

Zippers the Knack

Zippers the Knack

Zippers the Knack cont

Zippers the Knack cont

Zippers the Knack continued Page 66

Zippers the Knack continued Page 66

Zippers the Knack continued Page 67

Zippers the Knack continued Page 67

Avoid Distress with Gussets

There’s nothing worse than having a garment ruined by strain on the fibers — gussets to the rescue.

Let Irene Gilbert shares her wonderful way with fabrics. If you use hand-woven woolens and fine linens which tend to ravel easily, learn how to give special attention to any area of a garment that must withstand unavoidable strain.

Gussets

Gussets

Gussets cont..

Gussets cont..

Gussets continued

Gussets continued

gussets sewing tips dressmaking

The Vintage Gussets cont..

The Best Bound Buttonhole – we’ve heard that before.

You may have experimented with the various ways of making bound buttonholes only to find the results disappointing and the couture look you had so hoped to create already lost by a less than perfect buttonhole.

Vincent Monte Sano prefers the two-piece buttonhole describes below.

Bound Buttonholes

Bound Buttonholes

Bound Buttonholes cont..

Bound Buttonholes cont..

Bound Buttonhole cont

Bound Buttonhole cont

Here’s what I think is the trickiest part of the process–that of finishing the underside or facing under the completed buttonhole.

Finishing Bound Buttonholes

Finishing Bound Buttonholes

Collar Magic

You know if you do not own a tailor’s ham, buy one or make one, it is an indispensable tool in my opinion for this technique to give you stellar results.

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection cont..

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection cont..

Look for the link to download the entire book coming soon.

The entire 218 pages of Spadea’s Collection of Vintage Sewing Techniques can be found here.

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Tailor’s Slip Stitch | Hidden Buttoning | Pages 30 to 39

Tonight, there’s another glitch with E Bay’s listing form, so I decided to add more from the Spadea’s collection of sewing tips, here’s pages 30 to 39.

Hidden Buttoning – Many innovative styling techniques were innovations by Mr. Tiffeau’s, one of the most popular was the hidden button closure, giving a fluid unbroken look, which gives no hint of the button closure beneath. In his 1960’s collection, he used this closing in his loosely fitted jacket of a two piece dress made of flannel. Spadea’s N-1288 Two Piece Dress from the Vintage Pattern Wiki is an example of the technique.

Hidden Buttoning | Spadea

Hidden Buttoning | Spadea

Hidden Buttoning Continued

Hidden Buttoning Continued

would you like to see more of Tiffeau’s designs, check out Reading Vintage Vogue, on my birthday in 2003, the New York time sprinted an article call “The Hustler” which I think gives a great summary of how Tiffeau influenced the fashion industry.

Decisions Decisions Decisions - Sleeves

Decisions Decisions Decisions – Sleeves

Detachable Sleeves not a new idea, but how to do it? Well that might have escaped the knowledge base of the average seamstress including me.

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland

Facing the Facings – This tip isn’t just about facing it’s about flawless finishing techniques. If you have the chance to use this technique or have used a similar finishing, please share a pictures with our growing community.

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

The Tailor’s Slip Stitch – a sign of couture is your skill at hand stitching and your finishes, this is a hem technique worth learning to do. In the modern-day, most machines give similar hem stitch, but I think taking the time to practice and learn this technique is well worth the effort.

Tailor's Slip Stitch

Tailor’s Slip Stitch

Cover-up for A Collar

Cover-up for a Collar

Cover-up for a Collar

Cover a Collar Continued

Cover a Collar Continued

Sizing Up a Button

Sizing Up a Button

Couture Sewing Techniques | The Art of Sewing Part 1

Discovering Couture Sewing Techniques

It’s been two weeks since my last blog post, during that time away my hard drive failed and I couldn’t think of anything interesting to write about–primarily because I am worried about my data being lost. I didn’t want to just list patterns with “press this”, that’s not interesting and it wouldn’t give you my readers a reason to check in..

I decided on combining two of my passions, the first being my love of dramatic detail on relatively simple pieces as shown in this post titled Vintage Sewing Pattern Fashion Trim Detail a few weeks back with my passion for fine sewing techniques.

The art of couture sewing is slow sewing–these are not quick or simple but they are works of art if executed properly.

Since I really needed to replace my sewing bookmarks, I decided to share the websites and resources that I found interesting.

First I would like to recommend the  www.vpl.orgVintage Pattern Lending Library, it’s well worth the membership. It is a great source for vintage patterns reproductions from the 1860s through the 1950s. If you venture into the world of period reenactment and costuming, it’s also a fine place to checkout.

NextA French needlepoint lace with a floral design. here’s  Alencon Lace Sample a few of my favorite sewing related websites; Sew Country Chick, and her tutorial on “Making Alencon Lace Seams

Sewaholic is next on the list, I especially like her Sewtionary, Couture Bound Buttonhole I think that’s a new word, this page is a visual encyclopedia or dictionary of hand sewing techniques. Here’s a tutorial on making Bound Buttonholes. In her post ‘A little vacation reading: Couture Sewing Techniques”, her definition of couture sewing is spot on.

Welt Pocket

Welt Pocket

Are you intimidated by Welt Pockets,  here’s a crash course with step-by-step images to guide you through the process. LLadybird took plenty of pictures and provides a really good step by step–remember measure, mark and cut only after measuring and marking once again.

There are many other techniques that include hand stitching, quilting, lining, underlining, rolled lapels and much more, so I will end part one of this series with links to what I think is a great blog for advanced sewing tutorials.

Checkout Frabjous Couture, the tutorial is for a Boucle Chanel Jacket with a silk charmeuse lining quilted to support the shape of the jacket because boucle has a tendency to stretch our of shape and you end-up with the lining hanging below the hemlines. This is a three-part tutorial.

Part 1: Boucle Charmeuse and Quiltiing a la Chanel

Part 2: Boucle Charmeuse and Quiltiing a la Chanel

Part 3: Boucle Charmeuse and Quiltiing a la Chanel

Inside the Chanel Jacket

Inside the Chanel Jacket

“Inside the Chanel Jacket”, first appeared in Threads magazine in the October/November issue 2005, number 121, pp. 34-40.

Tell me what are your most challenging sewing technique? Part 2 will cover hand sewing techniques.