Vintage Collection of Designer Couture Sewing Tips By Spadea Pattern Company | All Pages Posted

Thank you all for following this series of post about 60’s designer sewing tips by a little known pattern company call Spadea, you can find more about this company’s history here at Fuzzy Lizzie.

The Vintage Traveler took the leap and actually contacted the mother Anne Spadea Combs, and it sounds like a really informative conversation, I think you’ll enjoy it check it out. Take special note that the Duchess of Windsor Collection for really for the Duchesses and that relationship lasted over ten years.

Earlier in this series, I spotlighted the Designer’s featured in this book you can find those post here

But there were other as outlined here;

Alan Graham, Anne Fogarty, Brigance, Ceil Chapman, Charles LaMaire, Charles Montaigne, Dinah Shore, Eguzquiza, Fontana, Harvey Berin, Herbert Sondheim, Lachasse, Leo Narducci, Tina Leser, Mollie Parnis, Nancy Layton, Norman Hartnell,Roberto Capucci, Simonetta, Veneziani, Vera Maxwell. I will outline a few below.

According to the Vintage Pattern Wiki Alan Graham created about ten designs for Spadea, unfortunately I could not find a Biography for Alan.

Anne Fogarty was part of the American Designer Series by Spadea. Wikipedia published an extensive bio, but if you want to see images, check out Fuzzy Lizzie once again provides a nice history and some really nice eye candy to boot. You might want to check out “The Well Dressed Wife” it would make a splendid addition library.

I would now like to focus on Tom Brigance relationship with the pattern publisher, it looks like he created about 12 designs which are illustrated noted on the Vintage Pattern Wiki. Pinterest provides a Gallery of designs by the iconic fashion designer. also checkout Couture Allure for one of his most desirable designs — you’ll find is still in demand today.

Ceil Chapman is another contributor to these classic styles you can see more of those designs at the Selfish Seamstress and a bit of background, Squidoo is also one of my favorite places checkout this wonderful lens on the designs at classic Vintage Old Hollywood Style .

According to what information I could find Charles LaMaire, was a prolific costume designer for some very famous movies such as All About Eve staring my favorite actress Betty Davis. I could talk all day–but check out his works here on Pinterest.

The book Designer Sewing Tips By Spadea Pattern Company is a gold mind of tips and techniques and my copy is securely in my sewing library, but I love to share and you can find every page at my Free Vintage Patterns Dazespast, soon each tip will cataloged by page so enjoy!

The cover image Hat is by my up and coming designer friend Mary over at MaryGwyneth Designs or her Facebook Page.

You can find other articles about the Spadea Sewing techniques by following these links.

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage 1960s

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 18 to 29

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 40 to 53

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 54 to 77 | Pockets to Collar Magic

I’ve written nothing at all about my love of fashion dolls–the dolls are amazing but the doll-sized couture is what makes me go Wow! stay tunes for the best of the best in everything that dresses and furnishes today’s dolls all with a vintage flare.

That’s all for now.

Peace!

Ruby

 

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage |Dust and Cut | The Golden Chain | Pages 18 to 29

Dust and Cut –marking and cutting out your pattern is the most time-consuming and tedious task, here’s an interesting idea from the workrooms of Shannon Rodgers.

Duct and Cut

Dust and Cut

A Pressing Matter – pressing not ironing is one of the most important task in the dressmaking process, if you want a professional looking finished piece, this is one step that you can always improve upon. According to Madame Biki any fabric having a specific nap or pile, such as velvet, or any embossed fabric having a raised design such as matelasse or cloque, could not be pressed. The fabric with the pile surface would become matted and the embossed fabric would lose its character pattern or volume. A system has been found whereby the fabric returns to its original freshness even after lengthy handling have you ever used a velvet board? They are still expensive but worth the investment. Instead use a double layer of thick terry surface towels placed over the ironing board instead.

A Pressing Matter

A Pressing Matter

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter

How to Handle A Delicate Drifter – Modern techniques have helped to lessen the trouble with handling and sewing these mysterious slinky fabrics as they slip and slither when you’re working with them. Jo Copeland has a bit of magical know-how from her workrooms. Here’s a little tip that you learn early on, try to have a surface large enough to accommodate the fabric width and length. Use a roll of tissue paper to underlay the fabric. If the paper isn’t wide enough, pin or scotch tape two or more widths together. You stitch right through the paper and fabric.

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter Continued

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter Continued

The Golden Chain – To keep the perfect hang of your suit jacket, designer Bill Blass uses a wonderful golden chain. You don’t have to use a gold chain but whatever metal you decide to use make sure it will stand the test of time. The chain makes a wonderful finishing touch that is not only practical but it’s decorative as well. By the way, check our a wonderful video on making the Chanel little black jacket which uses this same technique. Suit jackets, especially those made from woven fabrics will shag over time if this method is not used. The chain acts as a gentle weight and importantly keeps the weight evenly distributed along the entire lower edge of the jacket.

The Golden Chain

The Golden Chain

The Golden Chain Continued

The Golden Chain Continued

Why An Underlining? While each step in the dressmaking process is important, based on my experience I think the pressing and choosing the right underlining and interfacing is of the utmost importance. A wide and confusing choice of fabrics are available for underlining and each serves a definite purpose. How can you know which kind to choose, first read Understanding Underlining.

Be sure to understand that underlining and lining a garment is two different processes. I suggest that you read Underlining Vs Interfacing.

Anthony Blotta gives some help and aid in your choice. For loosely woven, knitted or soft woolen fabrics, the underlining is used for shape retention. To define molded contours or shape bouffants. Read more about underlining…

Why an Underlining | Anthony Blotta

Why an Underlining | Anthony Blotta

A Fitting Shortcut – One of the most important things you’ll want to carry out a flawless fit. Vincent Monte Sano suggests that you should always make a trail copy to test the fit of a garment.

Vincent Monte Sano | Fitting Shortcuts

Vincent Monte Sano | Fitting Shortcuts

Tips for Interfacing – the tips discussed in this book by Monte Sano and Pruzan will help you to cut the bulk of interfacing. in one example using their suggested method reduces the bulk when working with darts becomes immediately clear. Remember usually, you can’t find the correct type of interfacing in your typical fabric store, use the link resource below to understand and indulge in the finer more upscale materials for your project.

Make the Most of Exceptional Interfacing and How to Interface Jackets: Lessons from a Yves Saint Laurent Garment.

The first article especially provides insight and resources for purchasing these linings because they do make a big difference in how your finished piece will look.

Tips for Interfacings

Tips for interfacing

Tips for Interfacings continued | Monte Sano | Pruzan

Tips for Interfacing continued | Monte Sano | Pruzan

The Iron-On Fabric | Today’s Fusible Interfacing – Biki of Milan claimed that it could be used as a wonderful shortcut for stiffening extensive areas and to give a better value and new weight to certain fabrics, especially those used in making suits and coats.

Biki was correct in some cases fusible interfacing is used as underlining giving your garment a sculpted look, I hope this handy Chart of Fusible and Sew-in Interfacing is helpful.

The Iron On Fabrics

The Iron On Fabrics

The Iron On Fabrics Continued

The Iron On Fabrics Continued

I thought you might like this next article because the project allows you will use many of these techniques to complete the Jacket.

The 70 Hour classic French Jacket

FREE Vintage 1940s Sewing Patterns | German Die Alma Mode Winter 1947 | 1948

Enjoy these three lovely vintage 40’s Dress patterns

This type of system is similar Lutterloh and other systems and one of the easiest for pattern making in my opinion. All you have to do is click on the link and print out the pieces and follow the directions–be sure that you are working with a metric tape measure and the correct rulers.

I plan to add a list of supplies–just though about..stay tuned..

Couture Sewing Techniques | The Art of Sewing Part 1

Discovering Couture Sewing Techniques

It’s been two weeks since my last blog post, during that time away my hard drive failed and I couldn’t think of anything interesting to write about–primarily because I am worried about my data being lost. I didn’t want to just list patterns with “press this”, that’s not interesting and it wouldn’t give you my readers a reason to check in..

I decided on combining two of my passions, the first being my love of dramatic detail on relatively simple pieces as shown in this post titled Vintage Sewing Pattern Fashion Trim Detail a few weeks back with my passion for fine sewing techniques.

The art of couture sewing is slow sewing–these are not quick or simple but they are works of art if executed properly.

Since I really needed to replace my sewing bookmarks, I decided to share the websites and resources that I found interesting.

First I would like to recommend the  www.vpl.orgVintage Pattern Lending Library, it’s well worth the membership. It is a great source for vintage patterns reproductions from the 1860s through the 1950s. If you venture into the world of period reenactment and costuming, it’s also a fine place to checkout.

NextA French needlepoint lace with a floral design. here’s  Alencon Lace Sample a few of my favorite sewing related websites; Sew Country Chick, and her tutorial on “Making Alencon Lace Seams

Sewaholic is next on the list, I especially like her Sewtionary, Couture Bound Buttonhole I think that’s a new word, this page is a visual encyclopedia or dictionary of hand sewing techniques. Here’s a tutorial on making Bound Buttonholes. In her post ‘A little vacation reading: Couture Sewing Techniques”, her definition of couture sewing is spot on.

Welt Pocket

Welt Pocket

Are you intimidated by Welt Pockets,  here’s a crash course with step-by-step images to guide you through the process. LLadybird took plenty of pictures and provides a really good step by step–remember measure, mark and cut only after measuring and marking once again.

There are many other techniques that include hand stitching, quilting, lining, underlining, rolled lapels and much more, so I will end part one of this series with links to what I think is a great blog for advanced sewing tutorials.

Checkout Frabjous Couture, the tutorial is for a Boucle Chanel Jacket with a silk charmeuse lining quilted to support the shape of the jacket because boucle has a tendency to stretch our of shape and you end-up with the lining hanging below the hemlines. This is a three-part tutorial.

Part 1: Boucle Charmeuse and Quiltiing a la Chanel

Part 2: Boucle Charmeuse and Quiltiing a la Chanel

Part 3: Boucle Charmeuse and Quiltiing a la Chanel

Inside the Chanel Jacket

Inside the Chanel Jacket

“Inside the Chanel Jacket”, first appeared in Threads magazine in the October/November issue 2005, number 121, pp. 34-40.

Tell me what are your most challenging sewing technique? Part 2 will cover hand sewing techniques.