African American Fashion Doll 19.5 Inches CED

Welcome to the Fashion Doll World of Ruby With Vintage Flare

Gene Tyler Sydney Ellowyne Cara and More

Welcome to Ruby’s Fashion Doll World. I have to admit I love dolls — well I love the art of dolls in particular the extraordinary work of many designers. With skillful hands they craft couture quality fashions and accessories that dazzle the senses. Others make designing furniture and furnishings look easy and still others with the skill to create food, drink and everything in between. Today, I’m going to share with you my vintage inspired favorites starting with my featured image of Cara, my not so vintage doll by CED. What do I like about Cara? Well she reminds me of Me once upon a time. Cara is the Black Rose Shag wearing hand beaded, sequined black lace pants and top, with a black spandex and leather corset, black boots, a silver necklace, earrings and silver ring on her finger, she is a beauty. With that being said, I do have a pet-peeve, doll joints!  I must give credit to CED, they made this doll voluptuously sexy showing skin without showing the joints — thank you. While I can appreciate the art of the clothier, I really wish that someone could find a creative way to hide the joints– Enough of that rant–let me share with you Ruby’s Doll World. This first treasure sold on eBay for $38.90. The OOAK White Lace Tunic, Wide Skirt and Fancy Hat were made for Ellowyne designed by WVLZ Doll Fashions in the Netherlands. The designer has an eBay store with some incredibly well made pieces using top of the line fabrics and workmanship. I think the designer is selling too low, checkout the auctions, there’s no store, but there’s a pink number that you must see!

White Lace Tunic Skirt Hat Ellowyne

If you’re into dolls then you are also into the incredible dioramas or sets that are works of art, here’s a few examples of what I’m impressed with. At the top of the list is Mary Ann Roy, this lady’s work, well its beyond words if you haven’t seen it, you should. Checkout Welcome Home, a place of extraordinary beauty for 1:6 scale furniture and furnishings.

barbie size doll furniture 1:6 scale

Mary Ann Roy

Barbie furniture Innovative mid century modern ideas, great fabrics, amazing dolls and clothes.

Mid Century Mary Ann Roy

The Morrison Furniture Studio is hip and funky mid-century loveliness, I can’t wait to own my first collection, I just do not have any more room. This collection sold on eBay for $225.00, a price well worth it.

 1:6 scale modern doll furniture

Modern Retro Leopard Sectional Sofa w Table Elvis Albums

Morrison's furniture - amazing mid century modern in 1:6th scale

Asymmetry

There are some artful miniature designer’s out there, check out these links. Modernica Blog Doll Diva’s Flower (A designer from Mexican; be sure to install the translator extension on your browser) Let’s stroll back in time to the forties, I own both Gene and Violet in a couple different versions. Both are stunning and made for vintage fashion. Violet let’s me reminisce about my stylish grandmother who by the way was one of those stylist 40’s dolls and going through her closet as a girl made for the best dress-up ever. As a dressmaker myself with an understanding of what it takes to make a tailored or couture quality piece–but to make in miniature — the Couture Touch is exceptional, here’s a couple– well maybe a few of my favorites.

Gallery of Past Designs couture touch gene doll key lime delight suit hat bag

Key Lime Delight Circa 1950s

Gene fashion doll clothes couture touch

Savvy Stripes Circa 1940

satin suit violet waters fashion doll 15.5 inch

Violet Waters Fashion Doll

Before I move on to other Ellowyne fashions let me just share this board by Raw Dragon Fly Dolls on Pinterest–a superb collection of dolls dressed in art. I started this set off with Ellowyne, she exudes personality and her friend Lyzette the African-American or her Creole  friend is sinfully demure. I have found their outfits to be perfect for their personalities, a little mid-century, a bit classic-modern–its eclectic, check out these outfits. How would you describe them?

ellowyn doll clothes skirt hat ka=jacket

Ellowyn Skirt Jacket Hat Set

1920 reproduction linen dress lizette gloves

1920s Lizette Linen Dress Wool Hat Necklace Gloves

I’ll end with fantasy dolls, magnificent pieces of art the materials, the style everything about these next few dolls are just breath takenly beautiful.

Amaya (Night Rain)

Amaya | Night Rain

This next doll site not only produces great work–they want to teach you how to make great doll clothes by offering Free Tutorials at Fashion Doll Stylist.  This is a French website, but written in English. Fashion Doll Stylist I don’t usually favor boy dolls, but this work of art is fabulous – check out this beauty which hails from Russia I believe.

Iplehouse Victor_The Addiction

Victory the Addiction

For those DIY’ers I must list a few doll patterns that I’ve used and sold that are worth your time. For the record I started this fashion doll journey over ten years ago all because one of my customers sent me a gift, and I was fascinated. She gave me a Paradise Collector Crochet Doll Pattern and the Annie’s Attic Funky Parlor Pizazz Crochet Livingroom Set.

Crochet Barbie Doll furniture

Parlor Pizazz Annies Attic

paradise crochet FASHION DOLL patterb

1985 PRINCESS DIANA GALA GOWN

Four years later in 2004, I met another women, a client whose Christmas tree was decorated with everything Barbie. I commented that her daughter must really love Barbie–she corrected me it wasn’t her daughter, it was her and she opened a door to a room lined with Barbie everything. It wasn’t until I started researching dolls that I truly became mesmerized, and the journey began. To date, I own every sewing pattern made by Advance, Simplicity, Vogue, McCall’s and Butterick for Barbie. I even own all the Vogue and Simplicity for the 15.5″ dolls. I have granddaughters, they have 18″ dolls, while I am not crazy about American Girl dolls, I do like Madam Alexander’s My Life dolls. Here’s the one that I like the most, I’m still looking for the ballerina — these dolls have disappeared. I love books and magazines and have a full doll library, and I’m still working on the pattern released in the newspapers. I own every pattern in the Paradise doll pattern collection – Did you know at one time there was a woman from Brazil that hand beaded most of the Paradise collection and her creations sold for five figures? Now to some of those new pattern makers.

gene marshall

Evening Sophisticate

Fleischer Pattern Company

SCARLETT OHARA’S BLUE MILL Dress

Before I sign off I forgot about a really gifted miniature dressmaker Bellissima Couture Doll Fashions, checkout the fabrics she uses.

IMG_3942

Paris au Printemps

Also checkout this link: http://bvisayc556.wordpress.com/2013/10/09/italian-movie-for-fr16-tonner-and-similar-size-doll-on-etsy-now/

fashion doll clothes

Around the World – New England June 2013

I’m sure you are aware that I’ve barely touched the surface, and I would like to thank you for joining me along this journey if you would like to share my addiction for dolls check out my Pinterest board “Ruby’s Fashion Doll World“, has over 3,000 pins and over 2,500 followers. If dolls are your passion follow me on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/rubyJsfashiondollworld.

I am all for promoting the independent , self-employed designers. While there you will find patterns for all types of dolls, sewing, knitting, crocheted and crafted. if you want you can watch a video about how to create furniture, table settings or food for your doll and so much more.

Thanks for stopping by and following me.

Ciao!

Ruby

PS….

Free Vintage Fashion Doll Pattern Links

Free Vintage Knitting Crochet Patterns for Dolls 6 to 17.5 inches

Vintage 1960s Knitting Crochet and Sewing Patterns for 11.5 inch Fashion Doll | Doll Wardrobe to Knit Crochet and Sew
Free Vintage Doll Clothes Knitted & Crocheted Fashion Doll 11.5″ Free Knitting Patterns
Free 18 Inch Doll Cloths Patterns
Printable Doll Cloths All Sizes
Mini Mochi Crochet 18″ Doll Set
Barbie Doll Clothes Sewing Patterns

http://frugalabundance.com/dolls/free-doll-clothes-patterns.htm
http://www.molendrix.com/strihy1.html

Pearl Trees – interesting social concept but patterns for all size dolls including the hard to find 15.5 and above for Gene, Tyler, etc.. If you have some links to share please post.

Free Vintage Pattern Saturday |Small and Large Bust Adjustments | Waist Hips and Thighs

To start the New Year I was going to share some awesome free vintage patterns from my collection and other places around the internet–which by the way I am still going to do.

But, then I thought about the big content splash around the web in-terms of relevant content having to do with improving your dressmaking skills with respect to measuring, alterations and pattern grading of vintage sewing patterns. These sites use vintage techniques when possible–I have gone through many sewing books dating back to the late 1800’s some things are the same now as it was then, what may be different; but the tools needed for many techniques are being refined.

They’ve been in our sewing books all along–but we were not paying attention –didn’t have time, so we stopped finishing seams except with the standard manufactured serger and we’re enjoying getting back to the basic–the quality..

Thinking about what I just wrote–I want couture quality in my sewing that I make for myself and others and on the way there

Remember, vintage techniques used quality finishings

While I consider myself a skillful dressmaker, it’s definitely an area that I find the most interesting and challenging and to fine tune my skills, I sort out blogs that you may or may not know about.

I also have to give credit to Pinterest which has led me to some great resources and Chrome’s translation extensions open the door worldwide sources.

Now while I love sewing up a true vintage treasure and as you know I sell them too, I’ve discovered a gap in the market place–a niche.

So the question is, what if you could buy the vintage pattern of you wanted in the size you needed, requiring minimal alterations? What would it be?

So let’s start there, look at these really great vintage summer designs, I want to know which one you like the best. Taking the poll and commenting — I want to thank you in advance, its appreciated.

When we’re thinking about vintage sizing and wondering why 50’s and 60’s models looked so slim and trim in our personal collections of vintage patterns and magazines–let us not forget–women of that era worn girdles and corsets to make their bodies fit the shape of many styles.

As a matter of fact, I can remember being told to wear a girdle as a girl and on occasion today I still wear firm under-garments to make sure that my lumps and bumps are inc check.

I can’t remember the last time I even wore a pair of pantyhose–I wear stocking with garters and garter belts or the ones with the lace bands.

Now you might ask how does that feel in the summer–well be sure to select your under-garments based on materials suitable for the season. Like cotton bra’s and slips for instance.

Enough rambling checkout this article from Jennifer Valentine | The Body Beautiful, she takes on the subject with an eloquence that I find interesting.

Next and most important step as you know is your body measurements–this is not a task you can do alone and have accurate measurements, I believe as the next blog author that fitting problems can be eliminated before the begin by doing this first step correctly.

The next post by  Marina of Frabjous Couture is just what the doctor ordered, Hip Circumference and Fit for the figure with a tummy/belly or handle-bars or other mid-section imperfections, this is the first of a series of articles on the subject and she leaves us with some homework.

Next we’ll explore a couple of blog contributor’s with something to say about the Bust Adjustment and essential for almost everyone –wait let me just say, ready-made patterns just like shoes come in an average size the standard B cup, well a lot of women either have bust that are slimmer or fuller so how do you make a great fitting bodice.

Since bust adjustments are the most commonly asked question, I’ll devote several different resources to the subject.

Small Bust Adjustments

First we’re going to tackle Small Bust Adjustments which is more difficult to find articles about the subject, but Shannon has taken on the subject with a blog post titled “My Cup Does Not Runneth Over“, take a read if you need to adjust down instead of up.

As you’ll see with this next post on Slapdash Sewist, she takes an approach that most of us use, and that is working at the process until we get the bodice or top to fit the way we want it to.  But her pictures are great and easy to follow when it comes to making bust adjustments for small bust sizes.

Everybody’s familiar with Gertie, well she does a “Small Bust Adjustment Tutorial” for a pattern from her book “Gerties New Book for Better Sewing” and Colette Patterns, I think you’ll find it most useful.

For Us Full Busted Ladies With  C, D, E, F and G Cups

In this next post from Sincerely Yours, I really like the point that Kate makes about the “Full Bust Adjustment” as a milestone event in the sewing life of any heavy chested woman.  The book she recommends is Palmer/Pletsch Fit for Real People an excellent resource for your sewing library.

Back in the day I was 5’/7.5″, the perfect size 12 for my life before age 40, then a perfect size 14 after until my early 50’s. Now in my late 50’s I find that my hips are still a 44″ but my protruding stomach is a nightmare caused by fibroid tumors, gallstones and now ulcers. This next resources would have been a great resource for me.

Another FBA resource is courtesy of Pink Chalk Studios, in her post she shares her experience from a fitting class  at Pacific Fabrics in Bremerton, WA learning the Palmer/Pletsch method of fitting for unique shapes. I wanted to visit that Pacific Fabrics in Bremwnton and didn’t have a chance.

Bra fittings were an annual event during my adolescents, and I continue that tradition today with my daughter and grandaughter. By the way my granddaughter graduates from High School this June, anyway, you will know your true size.

Finally Sew LA Blog, gives a great run-down on Full Bust Adjustment techniques with measurements and all.

Enjoy these Fitting Tutorials and Resources.

Since we’re on the theme of vintage dressmaking–knits were on the rage in the forties and fifties and are still one of the most expensive custom couture fashions today, enjoy these beauties and share an outfit when you knit or crochet one of the patterns. Download this “Free Vintage Pattern eBooks” and enjoy your weekend.

knitting, crochet, patterns vintage, 30s, 1930, diamond, coats, suits, dresses, vintage, patterns

Couture Knitting Crochet Patterns Free PDF Book

vintage, free, patterns, knitting, jeweled, mink, trimmed, crochet

Free Vintage Jeweled Knitted Cardigan Pattern

bucilla, knitting, crochet, patterns, vintage , 30s, 1930, bernhard ulmann, coats, suits, dress, ensembles, hats, skirts

Free Knitting Crochet Vintage Suits Coats Dress Patterns

Vintage Collection of Designer Couture Sewing Tips By Spadea Pattern Company | All Pages Posted

Thank you all for following this series of post about 60’s designer sewing tips by a little known pattern company call Spadea, you can find more about this company’s history here at Fuzzy Lizzie.

The Vintage Traveler took the leap and actually contacted the mother Anne Spadea Combs, and it sounds like a really informative conversation, I think you’ll enjoy it check it out. Take special note that the Duchess of Windsor Collection for really for the Duchesses and that relationship lasted over ten years.

Earlier in this series, I spotlighted the Designer’s featured in this book you can find those post here

But there were other as outlined here;

Alan Graham, Anne Fogarty, Brigance, Ceil Chapman, Charles LaMaire, Charles Montaigne, Dinah Shore, Eguzquiza, Fontana, Harvey Berin, Herbert Sondheim, Lachasse, Leo Narducci, Tina Leser, Mollie Parnis, Nancy Layton, Norman Hartnell,Roberto Capucci, Simonetta, Veneziani, Vera Maxwell. I will outline a few below.

According to the Vintage Pattern Wiki Alan Graham created about ten designs for Spadea, unfortunately I could not find a Biography for Alan.

Anne Fogarty was part of the American Designer Series by Spadea. Wikipedia published an extensive bio, but if you want to see images, check out Fuzzy Lizzie once again provides a nice history and some really nice eye candy to boot. You might want to check out “The Well Dressed Wife” it would make a splendid addition library.

I would now like to focus on Tom Brigance relationship with the pattern publisher, it looks like he created about 12 designs which are illustrated noted on the Vintage Pattern Wiki. Pinterest provides a Gallery of designs by the iconic fashion designer. also checkout Couture Allure for one of his most desirable designs — you’ll find is still in demand today.

Ceil Chapman is another contributor to these classic styles you can see more of those designs at the Selfish Seamstress and a bit of background, Squidoo is also one of my favorite places checkout this wonderful lens on the designs at classic Vintage Old Hollywood Style .

According to what information I could find Charles LaMaire, was a prolific costume designer for some very famous movies such as All About Eve staring my favorite actress Betty Davis. I could talk all day–but check out his works here on Pinterest.

The book Designer Sewing Tips By Spadea Pattern Company is a gold mind of tips and techniques and my copy is securely in my sewing library, but I love to share and you can find every page at my Free Vintage Patterns Dazespast, soon each tip will cataloged by page so enjoy!

The cover image Hat is by my up and coming designer friend Mary over at MaryGwyneth Designs or her Facebook Page.

You can find other articles about the Spadea Sewing techniques by following these links.

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage 1960s

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 18 to 29

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 40 to 53

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 54 to 77 | Pockets to Collar Magic

I’ve written nothing at all about my love of fashion dolls–the dolls are amazing but the doll-sized couture is what makes me go Wow! stay tunes for the best of the best in everything that dresses and furnishes today’s dolls all with a vintage flare.

That’s all for now.

Peace!

Ruby

 

1218 Vintage Spadea Pattern

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 54 to 77 | Pockets to Collar Magic

Hi there, how was your week?

Today we had our first snow fall, the thin blanket of snow was beautiful, and I know there lots more to come.

Here’s the next installment of Spadea’s Vintage Collection of Designer How-To’s and Tips covering a range of topics. I’ve decided that I am going to follow behind several other blogger’s and link to the large books on my Google books page because the PDF’s are huge, and I want to make sure that you can print them if you like.

Let’s start with the topic of Patch Pockets, did you know there is a technique to attach them so the sewing is invisible? check out this little secret.

sewing patch pockets

Patch Pockets

patch pockets

Sewing Patch Pockets continued

sewing weights

Weighty Problems

weights sewing

Weighty Problems continued

How to Resolve Ravelling

Do you have trouble neatly securing the undersides of bound buttonholes, follow Herbert Sondheim has a solution.

sewing ravelling how to problems

How to Solve Ravelling Problems

French Piping

I am a stickler for fine finishes and beautiful detail and so was Jo Copeland, so let’s learn how Jo handled the application of piping.

Ravelling Problems | French Piping

Ravelling Problems | French Piping

French Piping cont Page 60

French Piping cont Page 60

French Piping continued | Top-Stitching

French Piping continued | Top-Stitching

Top Stitching with a Twist

Taking a cue from Jacques Tiffeau, you can give a custom look to your tailored clothes with some extra-special top-stitching. All you need is some silk buttonhole twist, a little extra effort and the adept use of your sewing machine.

sewing top stitch stitching

Top Stitching continued

A Smart Move

Use these instructions to re-cut your pattern to create similar results.

reducing armhole bulk facings moving

Moving Armhole Facings

When your zipper becomes a distraction, Harvey Berin the perfectionist shows you how to go beyond the invisible zipper for a truly couture result.

Zippers the Knack

Zippers the Knack

Zippers the Knack cont

Zippers the Knack cont

Zippers the Knack continued Page 66

Zippers the Knack continued Page 66

Zippers the Knack continued Page 67

Zippers the Knack continued Page 67

Avoid Distress with Gussets

There’s nothing worse than having a garment ruined by strain on the fibers — gussets to the rescue.

Let Irene Gilbert shares her wonderful way with fabrics. If you use hand-woven woolens and fine linens which tend to ravel easily, learn how to give special attention to any area of a garment that must withstand unavoidable strain.

Gussets

Gussets

Gussets cont..

Gussets cont..

Gussets continued

Gussets continued

gussets sewing tips dressmaking

The Vintage Gussets cont..

The Best Bound Buttonhole – we’ve heard that before.

You may have experimented with the various ways of making bound buttonholes only to find the results disappointing and the couture look you had so hoped to create already lost by a less than perfect buttonhole.

Vincent Monte Sano prefers the two-piece buttonhole describes below.

Bound Buttonholes

Bound Buttonholes

Bound Buttonholes cont..

Bound Buttonholes cont..

Bound Buttonhole cont

Bound Buttonhole cont

Here’s what I think is the trickiest part of the process–that of finishing the underside or facing under the completed buttonhole.

Finishing Bound Buttonholes

Finishing Bound Buttonholes

Collar Magic

You know if you do not own a tailor’s ham, buy one or make one, it is an indispensable tool in my opinion for this technique to give you stellar results.

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection cont..

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection cont..

Look for the link to download the entire book coming soon.

The entire 218 pages of Spadea’s Collection of Vintage Sewing Techniques can be found here.

knitting crochet sewing vintage pattern PDF downloads

Vintage Sewing and Dressmaking Advice | Great Blog Round-Up

Hi there, yesterday I came across some really good blogs that I want to share, you may already know about some or all of these sites but you may not.

Most are about vintage sewing, dressmaking and various techniques. I hope that you’ll find them useful.

A Good Wardrobe – her blog offers advice about what makes a good wardrobe and how to make it. I was going to pass on this one, but I decided to check out the content and it’s really good and personable site and I think one the deserves bookmarking. The post that got my attention was “Independent Pattern Designers“, her page provides great links to pattern designer websites.

Megan Nielsen – was another blog that I found interesting, I like the idea of sew-a-longs and at some point plan on conducting my own. In the meanwhile the site has tutorials and a lot of little quickie DIY projects, it’s a good resource.

Kestrel Makes – a lively site, what caught my attention was that she features vintage knitting patterns as well as sewing projects, what caught my eye was this 60’s vintage V neck pullover pattern.

Julia Bobbin - 1960's dress with Butterick 5747

Julia Bobbin, I think this blog is my favorite find of the week, the blog was really informative even for an experienced seamstress and crocheter such as myself, especially the post on Bound Buttonholes, I have to say it is really good and will become a permanent link on our tutorial page.

Sewing Your Style is another favorite of mine, the primary reason is she’s bustie and has hips which mean every pattern requires alterations or style changes. How to do them can be tricky, hurrah for us not really plus size bustie and hippy women with their own sense of style. Remember this; you can wear most any style providing you can make the necessary alterations and style changes to account for your full figure.

The next site has nothing at all to do with sewing, but is does have to do with good foundations for us who can’t buy our foundation garments at big box stores such as Target, Kmart or Walmart. last year my daughter and I went for out annual bra fitting and my measurement was a 36F, you can’t find that size at most stores, so two really good bras cost about $140…ouch! Well Facebooks targeted ads were right on the money with this bra website called Brayola. At first I wasn’t all that keen about going through the process, but I did and found my Panache Andorra bras for 50% less than what I paid at the store in Royal Oak, Michigan, so check it out. Yes, the personal fitting was worth it, but not at that price.

Lucky Lucille – is another site that I found absolutely delightful to browse around. Rochelle focus is mainly 40’s patterns, but she also has a vintage knitting page, over the years I have tried many times to just finish a knitted scarf, I’ve given up on learning how to knit except by machine. However, I love knits, and I’ve come to this conclusion — crochet is my thing. The other phenomenal find is that she does vintage fabric reproductions worth checking out for sure.

By Hand London – is another site we liked a lot, the primary reason is because it’s full of resources. Try out the Tracing and Altering Patterns or the Victoria Blazer Sew a-Long. Finally,the Zippers Hems and Finishing Touches, they were all well laid-out and very useful.

I leave for Detroit for a few days, I’ll be visiting Haberman’s Fabrics in Royal Oak, the only really true fabric store remaining in southeastern Michigan. Living here in northern NY in the woods, I might add, New York City is just as far as Detroit from where I live and cost me less once I’m there. My other fabric option which is truly a gem is the Fabric District in Montreal which is closer than both of my other choices. One of these days I’ll tell about my truly inspiration trip to the Fabric District in downtown Los Angeles — I was truly overwhelmed and came away with just some velvet–go figure.

I came back to add a link that started by link chase yesterday and Gertie answered the burning question once again that I find from anyone who wants to sew vintage patterns realizes very quickly, the raraity of large size patterns and even when you do find the right bust and hip size additional grading and alterations are still needed. Vintage pattern sizing is a quest that you can never have too many sources for guidance.

Stay tuned for the next installment of the Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips

Related articles

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Tailor’s Slip Stitch | Hidden Buttoning | Pages 30 to 39

Tonight, there’s another glitch with E Bay’s listing form, so I decided to add more from the Spadea’s collection of sewing tips, here’s pages 30 to 39.

Hidden Buttoning – Many innovative styling techniques were innovations by Mr. Tiffeau’s, one of the most popular was the hidden button closure, giving a fluid unbroken look, which gives no hint of the button closure beneath. In his 1960’s collection, he used this closing in his loosely fitted jacket of a two piece dress made of flannel. Spadea’s N-1288 Two Piece Dress from the Vintage Pattern Wiki is an example of the technique.

Hidden Buttoning | Spadea

Hidden Buttoning | Spadea

Hidden Buttoning Continued

Hidden Buttoning Continued

would you like to see more of Tiffeau’s designs, check out Reading Vintage Vogue, on my birthday in 2003, the New York time sprinted an article call “The Hustler” which I think gives a great summary of how Tiffeau influenced the fashion industry.

Decisions Decisions Decisions - Sleeves

Decisions Decisions Decisions – Sleeves

Detachable Sleeves not a new idea, but how to do it? Well that might have escaped the knowledge base of the average seamstress including me.

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland

Facing the Facings – This tip isn’t just about facing it’s about flawless finishing techniques. If you have the chance to use this technique or have used a similar finishing, please share a pictures with our growing community.

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

The Tailor’s Slip Stitch – a sign of couture is your skill at hand stitching and your finishes, this is a hem technique worth learning to do. In the modern-day, most machines give similar hem stitch, but I think taking the time to practice and learn this technique is well worth the effort.

Tailor's Slip Stitch

Tailor’s Slip Stitch

Cover-up for A Collar

Cover-up for a Collar

Cover-up for a Collar

Cover a Collar Continued

Cover a Collar Continued

Sizing Up a Button

Sizing Up a Button

FREE Vintage 1940s Sewing Patterns | German Die Alma Mode Winter 1947 | 1948

Enjoy these three lovely vintage 40’s Dress patterns

This type of system is similar Lutterloh and other systems and one of the easiest for pattern making in my opinion. All you have to do is click on the link and print out the pieces and follow the directions–be sure that you are working with a metric tape measure and the correct rulers.

I plan to add a list of supplies–just though about..stay tuned..

Couture Sewing Techniques | The Art of Sewing Part 1

Discovering Couture Sewing Techniques

It’s been two weeks since my last blog post, during that time away my hard drive failed and I couldn’t think of anything interesting to write about–primarily because I am worried about my data being lost. I didn’t want to just list patterns with “press this”, that’s not interesting and it wouldn’t give you my readers a reason to check in..

I decided on combining two of my passions, the first being my love of dramatic detail on relatively simple pieces as shown in this post titled Vintage Sewing Pattern Fashion Trim Detail a few weeks back with my passion for fine sewing techniques.

The art of couture sewing is slow sewing–these are not quick or simple but they are works of art if executed properly.

Since I really needed to replace my sewing bookmarks, I decided to share the websites and resources that I found interesting.

First I would like to recommend the  www.vpl.orgVintage Pattern Lending Library, it’s well worth the membership. It is a great source for vintage patterns reproductions from the 1860s through the 1950s. If you venture into the world of period reenactment and costuming, it’s also a fine place to checkout.

NextA French needlepoint lace with a floral design. here’s  Alencon Lace Sample a few of my favorite sewing related websites; Sew Country Chick, and her tutorial on “Making Alencon Lace Seams

Sewaholic is next on the list, I especially like her Sewtionary, Couture Bound Buttonhole I think that’s a new word, this page is a visual encyclopedia or dictionary of hand sewing techniques. Here’s a tutorial on making Bound Buttonholes. In her post ‘A little vacation reading: Couture Sewing Techniques”, her definition of couture sewing is spot on.

Welt Pocket

Welt Pocket

Are you intimidated by Welt Pockets,  here’s a crash course with step-by-step images to guide you through the process. LLadybird took plenty of pictures and provides a really good step by step–remember measure, mark and cut only after measuring and marking once again.

There are many other techniques that include hand stitching, quilting, lining, underlining, rolled lapels and much more, so I will end part one of this series with links to what I think is a great blog for advanced sewing tutorials.

Checkout Frabjous Couture, the tutorial is for a Boucle Chanel Jacket with a silk charmeuse lining quilted to support the shape of the jacket because boucle has a tendency to stretch our of shape and you end-up with the lining hanging below the hemlines. This is a three-part tutorial.

Part 1: Boucle Charmeuse and Quiltiing a la Chanel

Part 2: Boucle Charmeuse and Quiltiing a la Chanel

Part 3: Boucle Charmeuse and Quiltiing a la Chanel

Inside the Chanel Jacket

Inside the Chanel Jacket

“Inside the Chanel Jacket”, first appeared in Threads magazine in the October/November issue 2005, number 121, pp. 34-40.

Tell me what are your most challenging sewing technique? Part 2 will cover hand sewing techniques.