1218 Vintage Spadea Pattern

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 54 to 77 | Pockets to Collar Magic

Hi there, how was your week?

Today we had our first snow fall, the thin blanket of snow was beautiful, and I know there lots more to come.

Here’s the next installment of Spadea’s Vintage Collection of Designer How-To’s and Tips covering a range of topics. I’ve decided that I am going to follow behind several other blogger’s and link to the large books on my Google books page because the PDF’s are huge, and I want to make sure that you can print them if you like.

Let’s start with the topic of Patch Pockets, did you know there is a technique to attach them so the sewing is invisible? check out this little secret.

sewing patch pockets

Patch Pockets

patch pockets

Sewing Patch Pockets continued

sewing weights

Weighty Problems

weights sewing

Weighty Problems continued

How to Resolve Ravelling

Do you have trouble neatly securing the undersides of bound buttonholes, follow Herbert Sondheim has a solution.

sewing ravelling how to problems

How to Solve Ravelling Problems

French Piping

I am a stickler for fine finishes and beautiful detail and so was Jo Copeland, so let’s learn how Jo handled the application of piping.

Ravelling Problems | French Piping

Ravelling Problems | French Piping

French Piping cont Page 60

French Piping cont Page 60

French Piping continued | Top-Stitching

French Piping continued | Top-Stitching

Top Stitching with a Twist

Taking a cue from Jacques Tiffeau, you can give a custom look to your tailored clothes with some extra-special top-stitching. All you need is some silk buttonhole twist, a little extra effort and the adept use of your sewing machine.

sewing top stitch stitching

Top Stitching continued

A Smart Move

Use these instructions to re-cut your pattern to create similar results.

reducing armhole bulk facings moving

Moving Armhole Facings

When your zipper becomes a distraction, Harvey Berin the perfectionist shows you how to go beyond the invisible zipper for a truly couture result.

Zippers the Knack

Zippers the Knack

Zippers the Knack cont

Zippers the Knack cont

Zippers the Knack continued Page 66

Zippers the Knack continued Page 66

Zippers the Knack continued Page 67

Zippers the Knack continued Page 67

Avoid Distress with Gussets

There’s nothing worse than having a garment ruined by strain on the fibers — gussets to the rescue.

Let Irene Gilbert shares her wonderful way with fabrics. If you use hand-woven woolens and fine linens which tend to ravel easily, learn how to give special attention to any area of a garment that must withstand unavoidable strain.

Gussets

Gussets

Gussets cont..

Gussets cont..

Gussets continued

Gussets continued

gussets sewing tips dressmaking

The Vintage Gussets cont..

The Best Bound Buttonhole – we’ve heard that before.

You may have experimented with the various ways of making bound buttonholes only to find the results disappointing and the couture look you had so hoped to create already lost by a less than perfect buttonhole.

Vincent Monte Sano prefers the two-piece buttonhole describes below.

Bound Buttonholes

Bound Buttonholes

Bound Buttonholes cont..

Bound Buttonholes cont..

Bound Buttonhole cont

Bound Buttonhole cont

Here’s what I think is the trickiest part of the process–that of finishing the underside or facing under the completed buttonhole.

Finishing Bound Buttonholes

Finishing Bound Buttonholes

Collar Magic

You know if you do not own a tailor’s ham, buy one or make one, it is an indispensable tool in my opinion for this technique to give you stellar results.

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection cont..

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection cont..

Look for the link to download the entire book coming soon.

The entire 218 pages of Spadea’s Collection of Vintage Sewing Techniques can be found here.

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage 1960s

Couture Sewing Techniques by the world's most famous fashion designers of the time.

Couture Sewing Techniques by the world’s most famous fashion designers of the time.

Each week new sewing tips from world famous designers appeared in leading newspapers from coast to coast.

The were authored by Dale Cavanagh un the title “You’re Sew Right”, sponsored by the Spadea Pattern Service – which also appeared weekly in over 300 newspapers.

Copyright 1967

Copyright 1967

Table of Contents 1

Table of Contents 1

Table of Contents 2

Table of Contents 2

I’ve tried some of these tips such as; the Golden Chain; How to Keep Snaps Under Wrap; The Welt Seam; Knotted Buttons and many more.

Contents 3

Contents 3

Table of Contents 4

Table of Contents 4

Table Contents 5

Table Contents 5

Needling Your Way to Couture Smartness on a Budget

Needling Your Way to Couture Smartness on a Budget

Introduction 2

Introduction 2

Introduction 3

Introduction 3

Look for the next installment – Spadea’s Designer Profiles

In the meanwhile here’s a few links about the Spadea Pattern company and its fabulous vintage patterns.

There always the Vintage Pattern Wiki with lots of images.

Fuziielizzie Vintage Clothing is another source of background information about Spadea.

A Few Loose Threads is one of my favorites Blogs to follow for many reasons, checkout here recent piece only collectors or would be collector’s can appreciate.

Couture Sewing Techniques | The Art of Sewing Part 1

Discovering Couture Sewing Techniques

It’s been two weeks since my last blog post, during that time away my hard drive failed and I couldn’t think of anything interesting to write about–primarily because I am worried about my data being lost. I didn’t want to just list patterns with “press this”, that’s not interesting and it wouldn’t give you my readers a reason to check in..

I decided on combining two of my passions, the first being my love of dramatic detail on relatively simple pieces as shown in this post titled Vintage Sewing Pattern Fashion Trim Detail a few weeks back with my passion for fine sewing techniques.

The art of couture sewing is slow sewing–these are not quick or simple but they are works of art if executed properly.

Since I really needed to replace my sewing bookmarks, I decided to share the websites and resources that I found interesting.

First I would like to recommend the  www.vpl.orgVintage Pattern Lending Library, it’s well worth the membership. It is a great source for vintage patterns reproductions from the 1860s through the 1950s. If you venture into the world of period reenactment and costuming, it’s also a fine place to checkout.

NextA French needlepoint lace with a floral design. here’s  Alencon Lace Sample a few of my favorite sewing related websites; Sew Country Chick, and her tutorial on “Making Alencon Lace Seams

Sewaholic is next on the list, I especially like her Sewtionary, Couture Bound Buttonhole I think that’s a new word, this page is a visual encyclopedia or dictionary of hand sewing techniques. Here’s a tutorial on making Bound Buttonholes. In her post ‘A little vacation reading: Couture Sewing Techniques”, her definition of couture sewing is spot on.

Welt Pocket

Welt Pocket

Are you intimidated by Welt Pockets,  here’s a crash course with step-by-step images to guide you through the process. LLadybird took plenty of pictures and provides a really good step by step–remember measure, mark and cut only after measuring and marking once again.

There are many other techniques that include hand stitching, quilting, lining, underlining, rolled lapels and much more, so I will end part one of this series with links to what I think is a great blog for advanced sewing tutorials.

Checkout Frabjous Couture, the tutorial is for a Boucle Chanel Jacket with a silk charmeuse lining quilted to support the shape of the jacket because boucle has a tendency to stretch our of shape and you end-up with the lining hanging below the hemlines. This is a three-part tutorial.

Part 1: Boucle Charmeuse and Quiltiing a la Chanel

Part 2: Boucle Charmeuse and Quiltiing a la Chanel

Part 3: Boucle Charmeuse and Quiltiing a la Chanel

Inside the Chanel Jacket

Inside the Chanel Jacket

“Inside the Chanel Jacket”, first appeared in Threads magazine in the October/November issue 2005, number 121, pp. 34-40.

Tell me what are your most challenging sewing technique? Part 2 will cover hand sewing techniques.

Vintage Sewing Pattern Fashion Trim Detail

Sewing for me has always been about the details–distinctive, one of a kind details that make the garment uniquely mine.

That’s what I love about sewing vintage, especially the 40s and 50s..These details are not simple, but boy they can transform a piece from simple to spectacular.

Here’s some examples of spectacularly beautiful vintage sewing detail. These examples range from buttonholes or bias binding, tabs, collars and pockets.

Take a look at these and examples and tell what fashion sewing detail you’d like to master?

vintage sewing pattern detail pockets

1950s Bound Asymmetrical Pockets with Covered Buttons

Bound buttonholes are challenging — but what do you think about these pockets, is this a sewing technique you want to master?

50s sewing pattern vintage

Vintage 50s Sewing Pattern Neckline Variations

How about these necklines–which one do you like the best?

Here are some other examples of sewing patterns from the 1950’s with dramatic show-stopping accents.

Now let’s look at the 1940s–in my opinion some of these accents are not difficult to master but other’s given that vintage patterns were not marked with any detail, you really had to know how to sew. Not only did you have to use the machine proficiently your hand sewing skills had to be pretty good because some of these accents are difficult even with the technology of today. Here’s where your vintage sewing books would come in handy and I have a collection spanning from the 20’s through the 1970’s.

Now lets a visual journey through the high-end sewing patterns of the 40’s and please tell me what technique would you like to master?

In closing tonight’s post, I want you to know that running my vintage pattern store is time consuming and it leaves me very little time for sewing–but I do have some great projects already cut and ready–stay tuned because I really need to take the time to finish these pieces. Remember browse and let me know what trim details you crave to master.

Related articles