Vintage Collection of Designer Couture Sewing Tips By Spadea Pattern Company | All Pages Posted

Thank you all for following this series of post about 60’s designer sewing tips by a little known pattern company call Spadea, you can find more about this company’s history here at Fuzzy Lizzie.

The Vintage Traveler took the leap and actually contacted the mother Anne Spadea Combs, and it sounds like a really informative conversation, I think you’ll enjoy it check it out. Take special note that the Duchess of Windsor Collection for really for the Duchesses and that relationship lasted over ten years.

Earlier in this series, I spotlighted the Designer’s featured in this book you can find those post here

But there were other as outlined here;

Alan Graham, Anne Fogarty, Brigance, Ceil Chapman, Charles LaMaire, Charles Montaigne, Dinah Shore, Eguzquiza, Fontana, Harvey Berin, Herbert Sondheim, Lachasse, Leo Narducci, Tina Leser, Mollie Parnis, Nancy Layton, Norman Hartnell,Roberto Capucci, Simonetta, Veneziani, Vera Maxwell. I will outline a few below.

According to the Vintage Pattern Wiki Alan Graham created about ten designs for Spadea, unfortunately I could not find a Biography for Alan.

Anne Fogarty was part of the American Designer Series by Spadea. Wikipedia published an extensive bio, but if you want to see images, check out Fuzzy Lizzie once again provides a nice history and some really nice eye candy to boot. You might want to check out “The Well Dressed Wife” it would make a splendid addition library.

I would now like to focus on Tom Brigance relationship with the pattern publisher, it looks like he created about 12 designs which are illustrated noted on the Vintage Pattern Wiki. Pinterest provides a Gallery of designs by the iconic fashion designer. also checkout Couture Allure for one of his most desirable designs — you’ll find is still in demand today.

Ceil Chapman is another contributor to these classic styles you can see more of those designs at the Selfish Seamstress and a bit of background, Squidoo is also one of my favorite places checkout this wonderful lens on the designs at classic Vintage Old Hollywood Style .

According to what information I could find Charles LaMaire, was a prolific costume designer for some very famous movies such as All About Eve staring my favorite actress Betty Davis. I could talk all day–but check out his works here on Pinterest.

The book Designer Sewing Tips By Spadea Pattern Company is a gold mind of tips and techniques and my copy is securely in my sewing library, but I love to share and you can find every page at my Free Vintage Patterns Dazespast, soon each tip will cataloged by page so enjoy!

The cover image Hat is by my up and coming designer friend Mary over at MaryGwyneth Designs or her Facebook Page.

You can find other articles about the Spadea Sewing techniques by following these links.

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage 1960s

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 18 to 29

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 40 to 53

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 54 to 77 | Pockets to Collar Magic

I’ve written nothing at all about my love of fashion dolls–the dolls are amazing but the doll-sized couture is what makes me go Wow! stay tunes for the best of the best in everything that dresses and furnishes today’s dolls all with a vintage flare.

That’s all for now.

Peace!

Ruby

 

1218 Vintage Spadea Pattern

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 54 to 77 | Pockets to Collar Magic

Hi there, how was your week?

Today we had our first snow fall, the thin blanket of snow was beautiful, and I know there lots more to come.

Here’s the next installment of Spadea’s Vintage Collection of Designer How-To’s and Tips covering a range of topics. I’ve decided that I am going to follow behind several other blogger’s and link to the large books on my Google books page because the PDF’s are huge, and I want to make sure that you can print them if you like.

Let’s start with the topic of Patch Pockets, did you know there is a technique to attach them so the sewing is invisible? check out this little secret.

sewing patch pockets

Patch Pockets

patch pockets

Sewing Patch Pockets continued

sewing weights

Weighty Problems

weights sewing

Weighty Problems continued

How to Resolve Ravelling

Do you have trouble neatly securing the undersides of bound buttonholes, follow Herbert Sondheim has a solution.

sewing ravelling how to problems

How to Solve Ravelling Problems

French Piping

I am a stickler for fine finishes and beautiful detail and so was Jo Copeland, so let’s learn how Jo handled the application of piping.

Ravelling Problems | French Piping

Ravelling Problems | French Piping

French Piping cont Page 60

French Piping cont Page 60

French Piping continued | Top-Stitching

French Piping continued | Top-Stitching

Top Stitching with a Twist

Taking a cue from Jacques Tiffeau, you can give a custom look to your tailored clothes with some extra-special top-stitching. All you need is some silk buttonhole twist, a little extra effort and the adept use of your sewing machine.

sewing top stitch stitching

Top Stitching continued

A Smart Move

Use these instructions to re-cut your pattern to create similar results.

reducing armhole bulk facings moving

Moving Armhole Facings

When your zipper becomes a distraction, Harvey Berin the perfectionist shows you how to go beyond the invisible zipper for a truly couture result.

Zippers the Knack

Zippers the Knack

Zippers the Knack cont

Zippers the Knack cont

Zippers the Knack continued Page 66

Zippers the Knack continued Page 66

Zippers the Knack continued Page 67

Zippers the Knack continued Page 67

Avoid Distress with Gussets

There’s nothing worse than having a garment ruined by strain on the fibers — gussets to the rescue.

Let Irene Gilbert shares her wonderful way with fabrics. If you use hand-woven woolens and fine linens which tend to ravel easily, learn how to give special attention to any area of a garment that must withstand unavoidable strain.

Gussets

Gussets

Gussets cont..

Gussets cont..

Gussets continued

Gussets continued

gussets sewing tips dressmaking

The Vintage Gussets cont..

The Best Bound Buttonhole – we’ve heard that before.

You may have experimented with the various ways of making bound buttonholes only to find the results disappointing and the couture look you had so hoped to create already lost by a less than perfect buttonhole.

Vincent Monte Sano prefers the two-piece buttonhole describes below.

Bound Buttonholes

Bound Buttonholes

Bound Buttonholes cont..

Bound Buttonholes cont..

Bound Buttonhole cont

Bound Buttonhole cont

Here’s what I think is the trickiest part of the process–that of finishing the underside or facing under the completed buttonhole.

Finishing Bound Buttonholes

Finishing Bound Buttonholes

Collar Magic

You know if you do not own a tailor’s ham, buy one or make one, it is an indispensable tool in my opinion for this technique to give you stellar results.

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection cont..

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection cont..

Look for the link to download the entire book coming soon.

The entire 218 pages of Spadea’s Collection of Vintage Sewing Techniques can be found here.

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Tailor’s Slip Stitch | Hidden Buttoning | Pages 30 to 39

Tonight, there’s another glitch with E Bay’s listing form, so I decided to add more from the Spadea’s collection of sewing tips, here’s pages 30 to 39.

Hidden Buttoning – Many innovative styling techniques were innovations by Mr. Tiffeau’s, one of the most popular was the hidden button closure, giving a fluid unbroken look, which gives no hint of the button closure beneath. In his 1960’s collection, he used this closing in his loosely fitted jacket of a two piece dress made of flannel. Spadea’s N-1288 Two Piece Dress from the Vintage Pattern Wiki is an example of the technique.

Hidden Buttoning | Spadea

Hidden Buttoning | Spadea

Hidden Buttoning Continued

Hidden Buttoning Continued

would you like to see more of Tiffeau’s designs, check out Reading Vintage Vogue, on my birthday in 2003, the New York time sprinted an article call “The Hustler” which I think gives a great summary of how Tiffeau influenced the fashion industry.

Decisions Decisions Decisions - Sleeves

Decisions Decisions Decisions – Sleeves

Detachable Sleeves not a new idea, but how to do it? Well that might have escaped the knowledge base of the average seamstress including me.

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland

Facing the Facings – This tip isn’t just about facing it’s about flawless finishing techniques. If you have the chance to use this technique or have used a similar finishing, please share a pictures with our growing community.

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

The Tailor’s Slip Stitch – a sign of couture is your skill at hand stitching and your finishes, this is a hem technique worth learning to do. In the modern-day, most machines give similar hem stitch, but I think taking the time to practice and learn this technique is well worth the effort.

Tailor's Slip Stitch

Tailor’s Slip Stitch

Cover-up for A Collar

Cover-up for a Collar

Cover-up for a Collar

Cover a Collar Continued

Cover a Collar Continued

Sizing Up a Button

Sizing Up a Button

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage |Dust and Cut | The Golden Chain | Pages 18 to 29

Dust and Cut –marking and cutting out your pattern is the most time-consuming and tedious task, here’s an interesting idea from the workrooms of Shannon Rodgers.

Duct and Cut

Dust and Cut

A Pressing Matter – pressing not ironing is one of the most important task in the dressmaking process, if you want a professional looking finished piece, this is one step that you can always improve upon. According to Madame Biki any fabric having a specific nap or pile, such as velvet, or any embossed fabric having a raised design such as matelasse or cloque, could not be pressed. The fabric with the pile surface would become matted and the embossed fabric would lose its character pattern or volume. A system has been found whereby the fabric returns to its original freshness even after lengthy handling have you ever used a velvet board? They are still expensive but worth the investment. Instead use a double layer of thick terry surface towels placed over the ironing board instead.

A Pressing Matter

A Pressing Matter

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter

How to Handle A Delicate Drifter – Modern techniques have helped to lessen the trouble with handling and sewing these mysterious slinky fabrics as they slip and slither when you’re working with them. Jo Copeland has a bit of magical know-how from her workrooms. Here’s a little tip that you learn early on, try to have a surface large enough to accommodate the fabric width and length. Use a roll of tissue paper to underlay the fabric. If the paper isn’t wide enough, pin or scotch tape two or more widths together. You stitch right through the paper and fabric.

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter Continued

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter Continued

The Golden Chain – To keep the perfect hang of your suit jacket, designer Bill Blass uses a wonderful golden chain. You don’t have to use a gold chain but whatever metal you decide to use make sure it will stand the test of time. The chain makes a wonderful finishing touch that is not only practical but it’s decorative as well. By the way, check our a wonderful video on making the Chanel little black jacket which uses this same technique. Suit jackets, especially those made from woven fabrics will shag over time if this method is not used. The chain acts as a gentle weight and importantly keeps the weight evenly distributed along the entire lower edge of the jacket.

The Golden Chain

The Golden Chain

The Golden Chain Continued

The Golden Chain Continued

Why An Underlining? While each step in the dressmaking process is important, based on my experience I think the pressing and choosing the right underlining and interfacing is of the utmost importance. A wide and confusing choice of fabrics are available for underlining and each serves a definite purpose. How can you know which kind to choose, first read Understanding Underlining.

Be sure to understand that underlining and lining a garment is two different processes. I suggest that you read Underlining Vs Interfacing.

Anthony Blotta gives some help and aid in your choice. For loosely woven, knitted or soft woolen fabrics, the underlining is used for shape retention. To define molded contours or shape bouffants. Read more about underlining…

Why an Underlining | Anthony Blotta

Why an Underlining | Anthony Blotta

A Fitting Shortcut – One of the most important things you’ll want to carry out a flawless fit. Vincent Monte Sano suggests that you should always make a trail copy to test the fit of a garment.

Vincent Monte Sano | Fitting Shortcuts

Vincent Monte Sano | Fitting Shortcuts

Tips for Interfacing – the tips discussed in this book by Monte Sano and Pruzan will help you to cut the bulk of interfacing. in one example using their suggested method reduces the bulk when working with darts becomes immediately clear. Remember usually, you can’t find the correct type of interfacing in your typical fabric store, use the link resource below to understand and indulge in the finer more upscale materials for your project.

Make the Most of Exceptional Interfacing and How to Interface Jackets: Lessons from a Yves Saint Laurent Garment.

The first article especially provides insight and resources for purchasing these linings because they do make a big difference in how your finished piece will look.

Tips for Interfacings

Tips for interfacing

Tips for Interfacings continued | Monte Sano | Pruzan

Tips for Interfacing continued | Monte Sano | Pruzan

The Iron-On Fabric | Today’s Fusible Interfacing – Biki of Milan claimed that it could be used as a wonderful shortcut for stiffening extensive areas and to give a better value and new weight to certain fabrics, especially those used in making suits and coats.

Biki was correct in some cases fusible interfacing is used as underlining giving your garment a sculpted look, I hope this handy Chart of Fusible and Sew-in Interfacing is helpful.

The Iron On Fabrics

The Iron On Fabrics

The Iron On Fabrics Continued

The Iron On Fabrics Continued

I thought you might like this next article because the project allows you will use many of these techniques to complete the Jacket.

The 70 Hour classic French Jacket

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage 1960s | Joset Walker | Shannon Rodgers | Jerry Silverman

Designer Biographies

Designer Bio Shannon Roger | Joset Walker

Bio Shannon Roger | Joset Walker

Shannon Rodger and his partner Jerry Silverman have joined together to and became one of the raging successes of the American fashion industry in the 1960’s. Their showroom was a constant whirlwind of activity as buyers eagerly sought to make their purchases. They truly snared the fancy of the astute young moderns who recognized good design and good quality at prices they could afford.

Joset Walker is one of America’s outstanding designers of sportswear. her French origin makes her a stickler for fine tailoring as well as for chic. Here in this book she shares some of her sewing knowledge to help women become more efficient in their ventures. Here a Flicker page with lots of beautiful images of Joset’s designs.

Here’s couple of her sportswear designs.

Dorian Leigh in Swimwear by Joset WalkerJoset Walker Design

A collection of Sewing Tips Sapdea09072013_00005 - Copy

Jacques Tiffeau was the first American designer to raise hemlines to mini length.   Tiffeau and Busch are a team of high style fashion designers who have reached the top at a very young age. with their youth they have pioneered many new sewing gadgets and techniques. In this book you’ll discovery some of the innovations.

Here’s a great biography for Tiffeau you might enjoy and a few images.

Vincent Monte Sano and Pruzan top names in the American coat and suit market are known for their superb soft tailoring, styling and exclusive imported fabrics. their clothes are in the luxury class with prices at the time starting at $300 retail. In this publication they reveal custom tailoring secrets so women who sew could have greater success.

Jo Copeland and Anthony Blotta

Jo Copeland and Anthony Blotta

Jo Copeland one of America’s top names in high fashion she has been the darling of the chic women of Park and Fifth Avenues, who love feminine clothes. Here in this book she shares some of her sewing secrets so that women who make their own clothes could become better dresses than ever. Here’s more about Jo and her rise through the ranks of Fashion Design. Here’s a link over to a wonderful Pinterest page for Jo Copeland. I just love this Copeland Dress.

There no much information out there about Anthony Blotta the Vintage Pattern Wiki was a good source. Anthony Blotta is a master Tailor in the true sense of the word. His exquisitely constructed, hand finished clothes reflect his exacting standards. They are created for women who recognize and can afford the best. Here, he shares his couture know how.

Blotta began his fashion house in 1919, he became known for his work in wool, especially his suits and coats, and evening wear. He worked within the silhouettes of current fashion, but often with a softer edge. Blotta remained in business into the 1960’s. As I stated there’s not Anthony his work but here’a a link to a Gallery of Anthony Blotta’s work. By chance, if you know about more information, please share the link.

Biki of Milan | Irene Gilbert

Biki of Milan | Irene Gilbert

Puccini and Elvira became grandparents when Fosca and Salvatore Leonardi had their first child, Franca. In 1905 a second daughter followed. she was called “Little Elvira” and was the baby Puccini adored. when she grew up, Little Elvira Leonardi became the famous Milanese fashion designer “Biki of Milan”,  who reigned supreme in her atelier and whose clients included Milanese noblewomen, film stars, Maria Callas, and Toscanini’s daughters and granddaughters. If you’d like to read more about Biki check out this free book on Google Books.

Our Next Post will begin With exploring methods used by designers to mark fabric..Until next time.

Irene Gilbert of Dublin is the leading Irish couture designer of her era. Despite the competition from Paris and Italy her pattern designs have outsold others for amny seasons. this is a reflection of her creative ability. Her styling and workmanship are superb. Checkout this wonderful Irish Photo gallery.

Bill Blass | David Goodstein

Bill Blass | David Goodstein

Bill Blass. award winner for his septacularly chic and femininr clothes is now a seasoned star in the fashion designing world. He is one of the new group of American designers to emerge. he combines the traditional and the novel to create some of the greatest American clothes. Blass began his New York fashion career in 1945. He was a protégé of Baron de Gunzburg In 1970, after two decades of success in menswear and womenswear, he bought Maurice Rentner Ltd., which he had joined in 1959, and renamed it Bill Blass Limited. Over the next 30 years he expanded his line to include swimwear, furs, luggage, perfume, and chocolate. By 1998, his company had grown to a $700-million-a-year business.

David Goodstein was the king in the realm of casual sportswear as written by the St. Petersburg Times, a title he held through many successful seasons through many years The pattern shown in the St. Petersburg Times, May 23, 1954 is one of the powers behind his throne for it  has everything a casual ensemble should have, charm. detail, enhancing silhouette and a special air of its own.

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage 1960s

Couture Sewing Techniques by the world's most famous fashion designers of the time.

Couture Sewing Techniques by the world’s most famous fashion designers of the time.

Each week new sewing tips from world famous designers appeared in leading newspapers from coast to coast.

The were authored by Dale Cavanagh un the title “You’re Sew Right”, sponsored by the Spadea Pattern Service – which also appeared weekly in over 300 newspapers.

Copyright 1967

Copyright 1967

Table of Contents 1

Table of Contents 1

Table of Contents 2

Table of Contents 2

I’ve tried some of these tips such as; the Golden Chain; How to Keep Snaps Under Wrap; The Welt Seam; Knotted Buttons and many more.

Contents 3

Contents 3

Table of Contents 4

Table of Contents 4

Table Contents 5

Table Contents 5

Needling Your Way to Couture Smartness on a Budget

Needling Your Way to Couture Smartness on a Budget

Introduction 2

Introduction 2

Introduction 3

Introduction 3

Look for the next installment – Spadea’s Designer Profiles

In the meanwhile here’s a few links about the Spadea Pattern company and its fabulous vintage patterns.

There always the Vintage Pattern Wiki with lots of images.

Fuziielizzie Vintage Clothing is another source of background information about Spadea.

A Few Loose Threads is one of my favorites Blogs to follow for many reasons, checkout here recent piece only collectors or would be collector’s can appreciate.