The Art of Vintage Tatting | Free Tatting Patterns and Inspiration

What Is The Number One Tatting Question

The number one question asked by Tatters?

Do you know the answer?

They are looking for patterns beyond the traditional doily and edgings.

Thanks to Globalization we American’s now have access to pattern inspiration from all over the world.

The Art of Tatting, that’s based on one easy to do stitch. When you master that stitch, you will have mastered the art. Manipulating that one stitch takes a bit more practice however!

Take care to follow closely the directions for dropping the fingers and stretching the thread and–in a short amount of time, you’ll be creating with ease laces of beauty.

Delicate tatting has an air of elegance! From lovely edgings and other home furnishing pieces, to heirloom wearable that add sophistication to any outfit.

Do you Tat with a shuttle & hook or do you use a tatting needle? did you know that you can Tat without a shuttle?

I’ve tried both methods and the difference is like crocheting with yarn or fine thread, needle tatting and shuttle tatting are different.

But the finished project delivers the same results–my preference is needle tatting, Two totally different technique achieving the same results.

Remember there are challenges with both, there are special “needles” for needle tatting. The size of needle you use depends on the size of the thread you are using just as in crochet or knitting.

Use the diameter of needle that is as close to the thickness of the thread you are using.

So that when you make the stitches on the needle and then push them off the needle onto the thread, the stitches are not loose at all – they are the right size for the diameter of the thread.

I know people who have tried with poor results, do not use a regular sewing needle to tat – it must be a special “tatting needle”.

The eye of the needle is no bigger than the shaft of the needle, so that you can slide the stitches over it and onto the base thread.

Here’s an example of Needle Tatting

You can find the instructions here: http://www.georgiaseitz.com/2007/stricklandbracelet.html

Now here’s the same bracelet using Shuttle Tatting method

Absolute Beginner Tatting Series can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCG3Q9fgajBVXykAf1u0SkyQ

The instructions are here:

http://www.georgiaseitz.com/2007/stricklandshtlbrac.html

One other note,  while the stitches are the same the instruction between the two may read differently as shown in the examples above, experienced tatters can usually use either.

Here are some excellent instructional and Free pattern websites.

Allison’s Tatted Lace is a great little site with resources and free patterns.

Be-Stitched is another website you might find useful.

The Instructables Website has downloadable tutorials you might find useful.

Here’s a link to a 13 page PDF of Tatting Books to help build your Tatting library.

Priscilla Tatting Book – PDF – there are three in the Priscilla series.

Here’s a few example of Tatted wearable’s:

Here’s tatted slipper examples and can be found here: http://etsylove.ning.com/profiles/blogs/tatted-slippers-prototype

Rene Caovilla Lace Halter Slingback - Neiman Marcus

What do you think about this tatted insert?

tatting - I want to make it!

Here’s a pattern for Vintage Tatted Gloves pattern.

Tatted gloves patterntattingTatted bag

Here is an example of a tatted blouse.

Tatting blouseTeiko Fujito

This tatted piece is on sale on ETSY you can find it here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/105961892/scarlet-red-silk-summer-suit-jacket-with

 

Here’s another beautiful example:

bootyUnfortunately, tatting is a dying art - but I'm here to show you that it still has a place in modern crafts. Tatting is traditionally used to...Tatted fan /  Frywolitkowy wachlarz

Here’s a tatted cardigan made using thicker thread–well done. you don’t have to use finer weight threads when designing wearables.

Tatted Lace Collar Shrug Shawl Very Delicate by auntcarriesattic, $160.00  ---  Wow...Scarlet red silk summer suit, jacket,  with hand tatted lace shoulder part - high fashion -haute couture.

Do you like this tatted hats. slippers?

Women's knitted hat frivolite by HandmadeShoping on Etsy, $100.00Summer hat tatting ...... How beautifully common tatting patterns have been assembled to create this hat !tatted fingerless gloves

Black Needle Tatted Top Hat Fascinatorsandals crochet - sandalias crochetEdging or Insertion with pattern .

What about this tatted jewelry Box?

Tatting box jewelry gift for Her Home decor por ShopGift en EtsyBouquet of Flowers  with free tatting patterns to download (pdf format) ....... *a*

Here’s another tatted piece using a heavier weight of yarn instead of thread.

Forest Floor Needle Tatted Lace Soy Wool Shawl by tattingforspirit, $140.00Tatting ideas

Here’s an example of free-form tatting using the similar joining techniques used in Irish Crochet.

Amazing Free-form Tatting

When think about tatted clothes you are limited only by your imagination, look at this piece, tatted motifs, joining stitched and edging.

Handmade Tatting Lace Shawl / Scarf (400). $85.00, via Etsy.

Here’s an accent to trim an existing outfit–I really like this idea.

what to do with a tatted heart

Free Vintage Tatting Patterns

Here’s a few Free vintage tatting patterns that I’d like to share to get you started.

Free Vintage Richardson’s Tatting Book Number 7

vuintage tatting pa

Richardson Vintage Tatting Pattern Book Number 7

Tatting a Fascinating Book of Delicate Designs | 207 Spool Cotton 1944 Vintage Tatting Pattern Book

vintage tatting book

Tatting Patterns Spool Cotton Book 207

 Digital PDF eBook Patterns on Sale in my ETSY store ready for instant download:

Vintage Tatting Patterns Motifs Insertions | Luncheon Refreshment Sets Mats Tatted Jewelry Set | Towel Linen Delicate Collars Cuffs Edges

Vintage Tatting Patterns Motifs Insertions | Luncheon Refreshment Sets Mats Tatted Jewelry Set | Towel Linen Delicate Collars Cuffs Edges

Vintage Tatting Patterns Edges Collars Cuffs Chair Sets Medallions Insertions New Things Happen to Tatting | Spool Cotton Company Book 159

Vintage Tatting Patterns Edges Collars Cuffs Chair Sets Medallions Insertions New Things Happen to Tatting | Spool Cotton Company Book 159

 

African American Fashion Doll 19.5 Inches CED

Welcome to the Fashion Doll World of Ruby With Vintage Flare

Gene Tyler Sydney Ellowyne Cara and More

Welcome to Ruby’s Fashion Doll World. I have to admit I love dolls — well I love the art of dolls in particular the extraordinary work of many designers. With skillful hands they craft couture quality fashions and accessories that dazzle the senses. Others make designing furniture and furnishings look easy and still others with the skill to create food, drink and everything in between. Today, I’m going to share with you my vintage inspired favorites starting with my featured image of Cara, my not so vintage doll by CED. What do I like about Cara? Well she reminds me of Me once upon a time. Cara is the Black Rose Shag wearing hand beaded, sequined black lace pants and top, with a black spandex and leather corset, black boots, a silver necklace, earrings and silver ring on her finger, she is a beauty. With that being said, I do have a pet-peeve, doll joints!  I must give credit to CED, they made this doll voluptuously sexy showing skin without showing the joints — thank you. While I can appreciate the art of the clothier, I really wish that someone could find a creative way to hide the joints– Enough of that rant–let me share with you Ruby’s Doll World. This first treasure sold on eBay for $38.90. The OOAK White Lace Tunic, Wide Skirt and Fancy Hat were made for Ellowyne designed by WVLZ Doll Fashions in the Netherlands. The designer has an eBay store with some incredibly well made pieces using top of the line fabrics and workmanship. I think the designer is selling too low, checkout the auctions, there’s no store, but there’s a pink number that you must see!

White Lace Tunic Skirt Hat Ellowyne

If you’re into dolls then you are also into the incredible dioramas or sets that are works of art, here’s a few examples of what I’m impressed with. At the top of the list is Mary Ann Roy, this lady’s work, well its beyond words if you haven’t seen it, you should. Checkout Welcome Home, a place of extraordinary beauty for 1:6 scale furniture and furnishings.

barbie size doll furniture 1:6 scale

Mary Ann Roy

Barbie furniture Innovative mid century modern ideas, great fabrics, amazing dolls and clothes.

Mid Century Mary Ann Roy

The Morrison Furniture Studio is hip and funky mid-century loveliness, I can’t wait to own my first collection, I just do not have any more room. This collection sold on eBay for $225.00, a price well worth it.

 1:6 scale modern doll furniture

Modern Retro Leopard Sectional Sofa w Table Elvis Albums

Morrison's furniture - amazing mid century modern in 1:6th scale

Asymmetry

There are some artful miniature designer’s out there, check out these links. Modernica Blog Doll Diva’s Flower (A designer from Mexican; be sure to install the translator extension on your browser) Let’s stroll back in time to the forties, I own both Gene and Violet in a couple different versions. Both are stunning and made for vintage fashion. Violet let’s me reminisce about my stylish grandmother who by the way was one of those stylist 40’s dolls and going through her closet as a girl made for the best dress-up ever. As a dressmaker myself with an understanding of what it takes to make a tailored or couture quality piece–but to make in miniature — the Couture Touch is exceptional, here’s a couple– well maybe a few of my favorites.

Gallery of Past Designs couture touch gene doll key lime delight suit hat bag

Key Lime Delight Circa 1950s

Gene fashion doll clothes couture touch

Savvy Stripes Circa 1940

satin suit violet waters fashion doll 15.5 inch

Violet Waters Fashion Doll

Before I move on to other Ellowyne fashions let me just share this board by Raw Dragon Fly Dolls on Pinterest–a superb collection of dolls dressed in art. I started this set off with Ellowyne, she exudes personality and her friend Lyzette the African-American or her Creole  friend is sinfully demure. I have found their outfits to be perfect for their personalities, a little mid-century, a bit classic-modern–its eclectic, check out these outfits. How would you describe them?

ellowyn doll clothes skirt hat ka=jacket

Ellowyn Skirt Jacket Hat Set

1920 reproduction linen dress lizette gloves

1920s Lizette Linen Dress Wool Hat Necklace Gloves

I’ll end with fantasy dolls, magnificent pieces of art the materials, the style everything about these next few dolls are just breath takenly beautiful.

Amaya (Night Rain)

Amaya | Night Rain

This next doll site not only produces great work–they want to teach you how to make great doll clothes by offering Free Tutorials at Fashion Doll Stylist.  This is a French website, but written in English. Fashion Doll Stylist I don’t usually favor boy dolls, but this work of art is fabulous – check out this beauty which hails from Russia I believe.

Iplehouse Victor_The Addiction

Victory the Addiction

For those DIY’ers I must list a few doll patterns that I’ve used and sold that are worth your time. For the record I started this fashion doll journey over ten years ago all because one of my customers sent me a gift, and I was fascinated. She gave me a Paradise Collector Crochet Doll Pattern and the Annie’s Attic Funky Parlor Pizazz Crochet Livingroom Set.

Crochet Barbie Doll furniture

Parlor Pizazz Annies Attic

paradise crochet FASHION DOLL patterb

1985 PRINCESS DIANA GALA GOWN

Four years later in 2004, I met another women, a client whose Christmas tree was decorated with everything Barbie. I commented that her daughter must really love Barbie–she corrected me it wasn’t her daughter, it was her and she opened a door to a room lined with Barbie everything. It wasn’t until I started researching dolls that I truly became mesmerized, and the journey began. To date, I own every sewing pattern made by Advance, Simplicity, Vogue, McCall’s and Butterick for Barbie. I even own all the Vogue and Simplicity for the 15.5″ dolls. I have granddaughters, they have 18″ dolls, while I am not crazy about American Girl dolls, I do like Madam Alexander’s My Life dolls. Here’s the one that I like the most, I’m still looking for the ballerina — these dolls have disappeared. I love books and magazines and have a full doll library, and I’m still working on the pattern released in the newspapers. I own every pattern in the Paradise doll pattern collection – Did you know at one time there was a woman from Brazil that hand beaded most of the Paradise collection and her creations sold for five figures? Now to some of those new pattern makers.

gene marshall

Evening Sophisticate

Fleischer Pattern Company

SCARLETT OHARA’S BLUE MILL Dress

Before I sign off I forgot about a really gifted miniature dressmaker Bellissima Couture Doll Fashions, checkout the fabrics she uses.

IMG_3942

Paris au Printemps

Also checkout this link: http://bvisayc556.wordpress.com/2013/10/09/italian-movie-for-fr16-tonner-and-similar-size-doll-on-etsy-now/

fashion doll clothes

Around the World – New England June 2013

I’m sure you are aware that I’ve barely touched the surface, and I would like to thank you for joining me along this journey if you would like to share my addiction for dolls check out my Pinterest board “Ruby’s Fashion Doll World“, has over 3,000 pins and over 2,500 followers. If dolls are your passion follow me on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/rubyJsfashiondollworld.

I am all for promoting the independent , self-employed designers. While there you will find patterns for all types of dolls, sewing, knitting, crocheted and crafted. if you want you can watch a video about how to create furniture, table settings or food for your doll and so much more.

Thanks for stopping by and following me.

Ciao!

Ruby

PS….

Free Vintage Fashion Doll Pattern Links

Free Vintage Knitting Crochet Patterns for Dolls 6 to 17.5 inches

Vintage 1960s Knitting Crochet and Sewing Patterns for 11.5 inch Fashion Doll | Doll Wardrobe to Knit Crochet and Sew
Free Vintage Doll Clothes Knitted & Crocheted Fashion Doll 11.5″ Free Knitting Patterns
Free 18 Inch Doll Cloths Patterns
Printable Doll Cloths All Sizes
Mini Mochi Crochet 18″ Doll Set
Barbie Doll Clothes Sewing Patterns

http://frugalabundance.com/dolls/free-doll-clothes-patterns.htm
http://www.molendrix.com/strihy1.html

Pearl Trees – interesting social concept but patterns for all size dolls including the hard to find 15.5 and above for Gene, Tyler, etc.. If you have some links to share please post.

Vintage Collection of Designer Couture Sewing Tips By Spadea Pattern Company | All Pages Posted

Thank you all for following this series of post about 60’s designer sewing tips by a little known pattern company call Spadea, you can find more about this company’s history here at Fuzzy Lizzie.

The Vintage Traveler took the leap and actually contacted the mother Anne Spadea Combs, and it sounds like a really informative conversation, I think you’ll enjoy it check it out. Take special note that the Duchess of Windsor Collection for really for the Duchesses and that relationship lasted over ten years.

Earlier in this series, I spotlighted the Designer’s featured in this book you can find those post here

But there were other as outlined here;

Alan Graham, Anne Fogarty, Brigance, Ceil Chapman, Charles LaMaire, Charles Montaigne, Dinah Shore, Eguzquiza, Fontana, Harvey Berin, Herbert Sondheim, Lachasse, Leo Narducci, Tina Leser, Mollie Parnis, Nancy Layton, Norman Hartnell,Roberto Capucci, Simonetta, Veneziani, Vera Maxwell. I will outline a few below.

According to the Vintage Pattern Wiki Alan Graham created about ten designs for Spadea, unfortunately I could not find a Biography for Alan.

Anne Fogarty was part of the American Designer Series by Spadea. Wikipedia published an extensive bio, but if you want to see images, check out Fuzzy Lizzie once again provides a nice history and some really nice eye candy to boot. You might want to check out “The Well Dressed Wife” it would make a splendid addition library.

I would now like to focus on Tom Brigance relationship with the pattern publisher, it looks like he created about 12 designs which are illustrated noted on the Vintage Pattern Wiki. Pinterest provides a Gallery of designs by the iconic fashion designer. also checkout Couture Allure for one of his most desirable designs — you’ll find is still in demand today.

Ceil Chapman is another contributor to these classic styles you can see more of those designs at the Selfish Seamstress and a bit of background, Squidoo is also one of my favorite places checkout this wonderful lens on the designs at classic Vintage Old Hollywood Style .

According to what information I could find Charles LaMaire, was a prolific costume designer for some very famous movies such as All About Eve staring my favorite actress Betty Davis. I could talk all day–but check out his works here on Pinterest.

The book Designer Sewing Tips By Spadea Pattern Company is a gold mind of tips and techniques and my copy is securely in my sewing library, but I love to share and you can find every page at my Free Vintage Patterns Dazespast, soon each tip will cataloged by page so enjoy!

The cover image Hat is by my up and coming designer friend Mary over at MaryGwyneth Designs or her Facebook Page.

You can find other articles about the Spadea Sewing techniques by following these links.

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage 1960s

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 18 to 29

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 40 to 53

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 54 to 77 | Pockets to Collar Magic

I’ve written nothing at all about my love of fashion dolls–the dolls are amazing but the doll-sized couture is what makes me go Wow! stay tunes for the best of the best in everything that dresses and furnishes today’s dolls all with a vintage flare.

That’s all for now.

Peace!

Ruby

 

Vintage and Modern Fine Sewing Techniques for All the Veteran’s Who Love to Sew

I would like to dedicate this post to my youngest son serving our country since 1998 and all like him–Happy Veteran’s Day.

SSG Lunkins

SSG Lunkins

I know there’s great pride in wearing your uniform–but when the uniform come’s off you want to so off your individuality –some go shopping other’s bring out the sewing machine. Tonight I would like to share some of my favorite links for the best dressmaking tips, tricks and patterns.

Sewing Diaries with Paul Gallo

Trompe L’oeil with the Sewing Divas

db7d5017ea7f868ced224232871bc567

Trompe L’oeil Sample

Tutor Couture: How to Drape on the Stand

How to Drape a Dress with Master Tailor Sten Martin

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02yliFTPaVU

The Art of Draping

Threads Magazine editor Stephani Miller – Draping

How to Make a Hat Base – Threads Magazine

Fabric bow and feather embellishments transform the hat base from simple to stunning.

La Couturiere Dimanche – Designing by Draping

1930s Draping Book

How to Sew a Vintage Style High-Waist Play Suit

Two Piece Playsuit

Two Piece Play-Suit

Beach Suit Pattern 1937 courtesy Vintage Chic

1937 playsuit

Designing a Corset Part One with Ralph Pink

Die Alma Mode German 1948 Sewing Patterns

Vintage Men's Sport Jacket and Slacks

Vintage Men’s Sport Jacket and Slacks

Die Alma Mode 342

40s Lounging Pajamas

40s Lounging Pajamas

Vintage Bathing Suit Patterns

Vintage Bathing Suit Pattern

Shrimpton and Perfect – The Haslam System of Dresscutting

I plan to try this vintage Dressmaking System it’s available from, I have not located original copies yet, but you can find all the volumes as reproductions from by Bramcost Publications. I think it’s well worth the cost for the entire library.

Vintage Pattern Making for 1920s, 30s, 40s and 50s Fashions (Haslam Chart and Foundation Draftings)

To all that serve–Happy Veteran’s Day!

1218 Vintage Spadea Pattern

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Pages 54 to 77 | Pockets to Collar Magic

Hi there, how was your week?

Today we had our first snow fall, the thin blanket of snow was beautiful, and I know there lots more to come.

Here’s the next installment of Spadea’s Vintage Collection of Designer How-To’s and Tips covering a range of topics. I’ve decided that I am going to follow behind several other blogger’s and link to the large books on my Google books page because the PDF’s are huge, and I want to make sure that you can print them if you like.

Let’s start with the topic of Patch Pockets, did you know there is a technique to attach them so the sewing is invisible? check out this little secret.

sewing patch pockets

Patch Pockets

patch pockets

Sewing Patch Pockets continued

sewing weights

Weighty Problems

weights sewing

Weighty Problems continued

How to Resolve Ravelling

Do you have trouble neatly securing the undersides of bound buttonholes, follow Herbert Sondheim has a solution.

sewing ravelling how to problems

How to Solve Ravelling Problems

French Piping

I am a stickler for fine finishes and beautiful detail and so was Jo Copeland, so let’s learn how Jo handled the application of piping.

Ravelling Problems | French Piping

Ravelling Problems | French Piping

French Piping cont Page 60

French Piping cont Page 60

French Piping continued | Top-Stitching

French Piping continued | Top-Stitching

Top Stitching with a Twist

Taking a cue from Jacques Tiffeau, you can give a custom look to your tailored clothes with some extra-special top-stitching. All you need is some silk buttonhole twist, a little extra effort and the adept use of your sewing machine.

sewing top stitch stitching

Top Stitching continued

A Smart Move

Use these instructions to re-cut your pattern to create similar results.

reducing armhole bulk facings moving

Moving Armhole Facings

When your zipper becomes a distraction, Harvey Berin the perfectionist shows you how to go beyond the invisible zipper for a truly couture result.

Zippers the Knack

Zippers the Knack

Zippers the Knack cont

Zippers the Knack cont

Zippers the Knack continued Page 66

Zippers the Knack continued Page 66

Zippers the Knack continued Page 67

Zippers the Knack continued Page 67

Avoid Distress with Gussets

There’s nothing worse than having a garment ruined by strain on the fibers — gussets to the rescue.

Let Irene Gilbert shares her wonderful way with fabrics. If you use hand-woven woolens and fine linens which tend to ravel easily, learn how to give special attention to any area of a garment that must withstand unavoidable strain.

Gussets

Gussets

Gussets cont..

Gussets cont..

Gussets continued

Gussets continued

gussets sewing tips dressmaking

The Vintage Gussets cont..

The Best Bound Buttonhole – we’ve heard that before.

You may have experimented with the various ways of making bound buttonholes only to find the results disappointing and the couture look you had so hoped to create already lost by a less than perfect buttonhole.

Vincent Monte Sano prefers the two-piece buttonhole describes below.

Bound Buttonholes

Bound Buttonholes

Bound Buttonholes cont..

Bound Buttonholes cont..

Bound Buttonhole cont

Bound Buttonhole cont

Here’s what I think is the trickiest part of the process–that of finishing the underside or facing under the completed buttonhole.

Finishing Bound Buttonholes

Finishing Bound Buttonholes

Collar Magic

You know if you do not own a tailor’s ham, buy one or make one, it is an indispensable tool in my opinion for this technique to give you stellar results.

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection cont..

Collar Magic | Shaping the Collar to Perfection cont..

Look for the link to download the entire book coming soon.

The entire 218 pages of Spadea’s Collection of Vintage Sewing Techniques can be found here.

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage | Tailor’s Slip Stitch | Hidden Buttoning | Pages 30 to 39

Tonight, there’s another glitch with E Bay’s listing form, so I decided to add more from the Spadea’s collection of sewing tips, here’s pages 30 to 39.

Hidden Buttoning – Many innovative styling techniques were innovations by Mr. Tiffeau’s, one of the most popular was the hidden button closure, giving a fluid unbroken look, which gives no hint of the button closure beneath. In his 1960’s collection, he used this closing in his loosely fitted jacket of a two piece dress made of flannel. Spadea’s N-1288 Two Piece Dress from the Vintage Pattern Wiki is an example of the technique.

Hidden Buttoning | Spadea

Hidden Buttoning | Spadea

Hidden Buttoning Continued

Hidden Buttoning Continued

would you like to see more of Tiffeau’s designs, check out Reading Vintage Vogue, on my birthday in 2003, the New York time sprinted an article call “The Hustler” which I think gives a great summary of how Tiffeau influenced the fashion industry.

Decisions Decisions Decisions - Sleeves

Decisions Decisions Decisions – Sleeves

Detachable Sleeves not a new idea, but how to do it? Well that might have escaped the knowledge base of the average seamstress including me.

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland

Facing the Facings – This tip isn’t just about facing it’s about flawless finishing techniques. If you have the chance to use this technique or have used a similar finishing, please share a pictures with our growing community.

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

Face the Facing | Jo Copeland Continued

The Tailor’s Slip Stitch – a sign of couture is your skill at hand stitching and your finishes, this is a hem technique worth learning to do. In the modern-day, most machines give similar hem stitch, but I think taking the time to practice and learn this technique is well worth the effort.

Tailor's Slip Stitch

Tailor’s Slip Stitch

Cover-up for A Collar

Cover-up for a Collar

Cover-up for a Collar

Cover a Collar Continued

Cover a Collar Continued

Sizing Up a Button

Sizing Up a Button

Spadea’s Collection of Designer Sewing Tips Vintage |Dust and Cut | The Golden Chain | Pages 18 to 29

Dust and Cut –marking and cutting out your pattern is the most time-consuming and tedious task, here’s an interesting idea from the workrooms of Shannon Rodgers.

Duct and Cut

Dust and Cut

A Pressing Matter – pressing not ironing is one of the most important task in the dressmaking process, if you want a professional looking finished piece, this is one step that you can always improve upon. According to Madame Biki any fabric having a specific nap or pile, such as velvet, or any embossed fabric having a raised design such as matelasse or cloque, could not be pressed. The fabric with the pile surface would become matted and the embossed fabric would lose its character pattern or volume. A system has been found whereby the fabric returns to its original freshness even after lengthy handling have you ever used a velvet board? They are still expensive but worth the investment. Instead use a double layer of thick terry surface towels placed over the ironing board instead.

A Pressing Matter

A Pressing Matter

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter

How to Handle A Delicate Drifter – Modern techniques have helped to lessen the trouble with handling and sewing these mysterious slinky fabrics as they slip and slither when you’re working with them. Jo Copeland has a bit of magical know-how from her workrooms. Here’s a little tip that you learn early on, try to have a surface large enough to accommodate the fabric width and length. Use a roll of tissue paper to underlay the fabric. If the paper isn’t wide enough, pin or scotch tape two or more widths together. You stitch right through the paper and fabric.

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter Continued

How to Handle a Delicate Drifter Continued

The Golden Chain – To keep the perfect hang of your suit jacket, designer Bill Blass uses a wonderful golden chain. You don’t have to use a gold chain but whatever metal you decide to use make sure it will stand the test of time. The chain makes a wonderful finishing touch that is not only practical but it’s decorative as well. By the way, check our a wonderful video on making the Chanel little black jacket which uses this same technique. Suit jackets, especially those made from woven fabrics will shag over time if this method is not used. The chain acts as a gentle weight and importantly keeps the weight evenly distributed along the entire lower edge of the jacket.

The Golden Chain

The Golden Chain

The Golden Chain Continued

The Golden Chain Continued

Why An Underlining? While each step in the dressmaking process is important, based on my experience I think the pressing and choosing the right underlining and interfacing is of the utmost importance. A wide and confusing choice of fabrics are available for underlining and each serves a definite purpose. How can you know which kind to choose, first read Understanding Underlining.

Be sure to understand that underlining and lining a garment is two different processes. I suggest that you read Underlining Vs Interfacing.

Anthony Blotta gives some help and aid in your choice. For loosely woven, knitted or soft woolen fabrics, the underlining is used for shape retention. To define molded contours or shape bouffants. Read more about underlining…

Why an Underlining | Anthony Blotta

Why an Underlining | Anthony Blotta

A Fitting Shortcut – One of the most important things you’ll want to carry out a flawless fit. Vincent Monte Sano suggests that you should always make a trail copy to test the fit of a garment.

Vincent Monte Sano | Fitting Shortcuts

Vincent Monte Sano | Fitting Shortcuts

Tips for Interfacing – the tips discussed in this book by Monte Sano and Pruzan will help you to cut the bulk of interfacing. in one example using their suggested method reduces the bulk when working with darts becomes immediately clear. Remember usually, you can’t find the correct type of interfacing in your typical fabric store, use the link resource below to understand and indulge in the finer more upscale materials for your project.

Make the Most of Exceptional Interfacing and How to Interface Jackets: Lessons from a Yves Saint Laurent Garment.

The first article especially provides insight and resources for purchasing these linings because they do make a big difference in how your finished piece will look.

Tips for Interfacings

Tips for interfacing

Tips for Interfacings continued | Monte Sano | Pruzan

Tips for Interfacing continued | Monte Sano | Pruzan

The Iron-On Fabric | Today’s Fusible Interfacing – Biki of Milan claimed that it could be used as a wonderful shortcut for stiffening extensive areas and to give a better value and new weight to certain fabrics, especially those used in making suits and coats.

Biki was correct in some cases fusible interfacing is used as underlining giving your garment a sculpted look, I hope this handy Chart of Fusible and Sew-in Interfacing is helpful.

The Iron On Fabrics

The Iron On Fabrics

The Iron On Fabrics Continued

The Iron On Fabrics Continued

I thought you might like this next article because the project allows you will use many of these techniques to complete the Jacket.

The 70 Hour classic French Jacket